The media have dubbed the holiday “Silver Week” in honor of the seniors who will be honored on the first national holiday of the week, Keirou-no-hi, which by quirk of the calendar falls on a Sunday this year.  The Happy Monday Law enacted in 2000 dictates that any holiday that falls on a Sunday will be celebrated on the following Monday and that any day that falls between two national holidays a holiday itself .

In 2009, Silver Week starts at the close of business on Friday, September 18th and runs through Wednesday the 23rd.

Japanese National Holidays During Silver Week:

September 21st– Respect for the Aged Day (Keiro no hi)
A relatively new national holiday in Japan, designated as such in 1966, there are no long standing customs associated with the day but with the rapidly “silvering” or aging of the Japanese population it is likely that the holiday will gain significance over time.
September 22nd – Kokumin no kyujitsu
Part of the Happy Monday system that automatically makes the day that falls between two national holidays a holiday itself.
September 23rd – Autumn Equinox Day (Shubun no hi)
Celebrating the turning of the seasons, many people head back to their hometowns and spend a portion of the Shubun-no-hi, with is also celebrated each spring, tending to the graves of their ancestors according to ancient Buddhist tradition.

Silver week is not an annual occurrence, in fact the next time that Japan will celebrate this week will be in 2015!

It might be a good time to visit the silver sand of Ginkakuji in Kyoto (pictured above right) – one of many stunning examples of Zen Gardens in Japan.

Image Credit:   Flickr, heal us & Ginkakuji Temple – Silver Pavilion – Kyoto

Noh was developed in ancient Japan and has been refined and performed since the Muromachi period (1333－1573).  A Noh play features a main actor and a small supporting cast of actors and musicians telling a tale that cane be set in reality, genzai no, or based on fantasy, mugen no. The main character wears an elaborately carved mask appropriate for his character and utilizes stylized movements (kata) and chanting (utai) to tell a tale that is often based on stories found in classic Japanese literature and is accompanied by traditional music.

“Noh is a kind of symbolic drama colored with the graceful aesthetic effect of quiet elegance that is expressed through the word yugen (“elegant, refined, and elusive beauty”). Its subjects are taken from history or classical literature, and it is structured around song and dance”

Today, Noh along with Kyogen, is recognized as a  Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO and is performed at the National Theater of Japan in Tokyo, Osaka and Okinawa at various times during the year.

For a less formal, but equally impressive performance look for outdoor events like those performed on Sado Island in the Chubu Region of Japan or the annual performance in the garden adjacent to Osaka Castle.  This year features a Noh play telling the story of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, a military commander in the Heian period (794-1192), and his mistress Shizuka Gozen as well as a performance of Kyogen followed by the lighting of bonfires around the stage and a dramatic illumination of Osaka Castle.

Noh at Osaka Castle Event Details:

Date: Thursday, August 27, 2009

Time: 6PM (will be postponed to the following day in case of rain)

Venue: Nishi no Maru Garden on the grounds of Osaka Castle (Osaka Castle Access Map)

Tickets: Advance tickets, which are available at major ticket outlets, are 3,600 yen for adults and 2,000 yen for university and high school students. Tickets at the door are 4,500 yen and 2,500 yen, respectively.  (Event details from Daily Yomiuri)

Image Credit:  Wikimedia, File:春日神社ー篠山ー翁奉納P1011774 & Flickr, Kagura Source: National Theater of Japan, What is Noh & Kyogen?

I picked up two sets of  wooden chopsticks (five pairs) for Y500 each, a modern sashimi platter for the same price, small dishes perfect for tsukemono for Y200 each and some lovely aperitif glasses for Y100 each.  A friend and I walked either side of the street twice and waded through the bins, boxes and shelves stocked with everything imaginable.  Whether you are looking for lacquer ware miso soup bowls, Japanese tea pots, decorative ceramic sake flasks, tea or sake cups you will likely find it at the Setomono Ichi.

A lovely array of decorative ceramic pieces (like the items pictured above) were also on display and the the sidewalks were packed with many other Japanese dish loving shoppers like us.

If you love dishes don’t miss the Setomono Ichi – the event started yesterday and runs through Wednesday, August 5th from 9AM to 8PM.   Head for the Ningyocho Station on the Hibiya Line or Toei Asakusa Line or the Suitengu-mae Station on the Hanzomon Line.  The ceramic vendors can’t be missed along the main street between Suitengu intersection and Ningyocho intersection.

Visit the Chuo City Tourism Association website for a map of Ningyocho and to learn about other sites in the area.

Image Credit: Personal Collection

Tokyo beers gardens can be found in parks and on building rooftops throughout the city  and there’s nothing better than enjoying a cold beer, or two, with friends on a warm summer evening in the city. Social and business networking on Tokyo has now been taken to a new level with the creation of the Tokyo Garden Party.

On a sweltering summer day in 2008, two of Tokyo’s up-and-coming creative agencies got together to discuss ways in which to work together. Instead of having the meeting at their office, they decided to rendezvous at the beer garden on the roof of Bunkamura in Shibuya.

“It was such a beautiful afternoon, it seemed crazy to stay inside”, says Wayne J. Moskwa, creative designer at fusionbureau. “For two agencies that specialized in breaking the rules it seemed like the natural place to get together”. Over several plates of edamame (boiled soy beans) and a few rounds of daijoki (big beers), bonds were formed which led to the fusionbureau team taking on the task of rebuilding the SET website and SET putting together an event for one of fusionbureau’s clients.

It worked out so well that they decided to start a networking event between the two firms. Johan Rooms from fusionbureau explained how the original idea was to bring along one or two clients each time and talk and drink together casually about possible collaborations. “We envisioned around 15-20 people getting together every once in a while in the hope of finding some synergy”.

Fast forward to 2009 and Tokyo Garden Party is the talk of the town…sort of. Now getting ready their 4th event, the jointly run networking event is garnering great reviews and a rapidly growing Facebook army. Greg McMaster from SET says they were amazed by the response. “We were aiming for 30 people for the first event, held at Shibuya Bunkamura in honor of the place where the idea first took shape, but we had over 60 despite the dodgy weather”.

The format is fairly loose and there are no guest speakers or presentations.  Rather it is simply an opportunity to get together in a casual open-air setting and talk. The Facebook page says that it is for marketing and advertising industry people but this was only because they didn’t have a wide enough category to cover what the organizers wanted. It is open to anyone either living in Tokyo or visiting from abroad. Basically if you enjoy drinking outdoors, it’s the event for you.

Greg Lane from fusionbureau says the idea was to create something that was pretty much without rules. “We have toyed with the idea of presenters and special guests but we might leave that until the hangover of year one has passed and we start planning for 2010″.

If you want to get more information check out the Tokyo Garden Party Facebook page, visit the Tokyo Garden Party website or follow @tokyobeergarden on Twitter.

Upcoming Tokyo Garden Parties

Thursday, August 13 at 7:00pm – Jingu-Gaien ‘Mori no Biagaaden’ (The Forest Beer Garden)

Join the party by leaving your RSVP on the Tokyo Garden Party Facebook page.

Image Credit: Facebook, Photos from Tokyo Garden Party #2 & Photos from Tokyo Garden Party #3

Late July and early August is Obon season in Japan, a time when Buddhists honor their ancestors with Obon Festivals and Bon Odori (Bon dances) that stems from the tale on a monk named Mokuren.  One day while meditating Mokuren saw his mother suffering, whenever she touched food it burst into flames, and he appealed to Buddha to save his mother from a fate of starvation in the Hell of Hungry Ghosts.  Buddha instructed Mokuren to offer food to his fellow monks and he did so, freeing his mother and seven generations of his family from their suffering.  Obon festivals have taken place in Japan since 657AD.

“Obon is a time to remember and honor all those who have passed on before us. It is a time to appreciate all that they have done for us and to recognize the continuation of the influence of their deeds upon our lives. Obon is also a time of self-reflection; the joy one feels is not from the happiness of getting what you desire, but the joy of being shown the truth — the joy of awareness.”*

You can witness a Bon Odori at the Shinagawa Prince Hotel this weekend (Friday, July 31st through Monday, August 3rd) in Tokyo this weekend.  The event takes place from 6-9PM weather permitting.

The Shinagawa Prince Hotel is a two minute walk from Shinagawa Station (Takanawa Exit). Shinagawa Prince Access Map

* Brief History and Meaning of Bon Odori
Image Credit:  Flickr, Bon Festival Dance

The name Kagurazaka is a combination of kagura (a shrine-dance to music) and saka (hill) and evokes the sites and topography of this beautiful part of Tokyo.   The layout of the area is much the same as it was when the town was built in the 17th century despite the fact that most of the area was burned down as the result of an air raid on Tokyo in 1920.

The annual Kagurazaka festival takes place each July and features a Hozuki Ichi (Ground Cherry Pod Fair) and parades featuring Awa Odori folk dancers.  This years festival takes place from July 22nd through the 25th and it’s a great opportunity to explore the area.

Festival events are schedule in the evening so head out early and explore the cobblestone alleyways and shops of this area where Karyukai, or Geisha culture, was born.   In 1910 there were as many as 600 Geishas who made the area home and a few Ryotei (Geisha houses) still operate in the area.  The Shinjuku City Tourism Association offers a great guide to Kagurazaka with some photos and history of the various points of interest.  Also, be sure to ask an area vendor for a copy of the Walking Guide for Kagurazawa.

Awa Odori on Kagurazaka Slope

The highlight of the festival is the Awa odori, a local bon dance from Tokushima Prefecture featuring  fifteen dance troupes parading down Kagurazaka Dori from 7-9PM on July 24th & 25th. (Kagurazaka Festival Map)

Hozuki Ichi

The area around the Bishamonten Zenkokuji Temple hosts the Hozuki Ichi (Ground Cherry Pod Fair) on July 22nd & 23rd from 5-10PM.  Enjoy the beer garden and consider taking advantage of the yukata (summer cotton kimono) dress up service so you can strolling through the area like a local.

Kagurazaka is conveniently located and accessible from the JR IIdabashi station on the Yamanote Line. As you exit the station, turn to your right and a one minute walk will place you at the base of Kagurazaka-dori.  Tokyo Metro Iidabashi and Ushigome-Kagurazaka stations also provide access to the area.

If you plan on attending the festival with children you will find the tips and advice in Take your Kids to a Festival in Japan helpful.

Image Credit:  Flickr, P1000984 Kagurazaka & Awa Odori, Tokushima, Japan [2008]

Our host for the evening stressed the concept of “feeling’ the culture, and while it may sounds trite it is a good way to approach the evening.  The beating of the taiko and tsuzumi (hand drum), the haunting melodies of the fue (bamboo flute) and shamisen accompany traditional dances and songs performed by Geisha that will transport you back to the Edo period or earlier when Geisha were in high demand at parties and tea houses across Japan.

“A Geisha is a woman trained in the traditional arts of Japan which include dance, song and the playing of musical instruments who must first serve as a Maiko or apprentice Geisha.  Maiko training involves a four to five year commitment and a passion for traditional Japanese arts and culture. So is the Geisha lifestyle for you?”

Learn more about the incredible commitment of these women with a passion for traditional Japanese arts and lifestyle in So You Want To Become A Geisha?.

As you dine on tsumami (traditional Japanese hors d-oeuvres) made with seasonal ingredients and sip sake you will be introduced to the traditional arts that are part of the cultural heritage of Japan through the skilled performances of kimono clad geisha.

Omotenashi is “the act of providing detailed service in a variety of ways for allow guests to spend a relaxing and memorable time” and this standard of service is reflected in the name of the program, “Nihonbashi the Omotenashi Experience”.

As we dined upon nasu dengaku (eggplant broiled in miso), anago-bou sushi (grilled eel on rice), houzuki-shinjo (deep fried shrimp dumpling), edamame (boiled soybeans) and other tasty delicacies we were treated to six acts of ohayashi (music and games) over almost two hours.

The Geisha on this evening were from the Asakusa district and treated us to three dances with songs accompanied by the shamisen.  The dramatic movements of the Geisha told the stories of their daily life, about summer in Asakusa, the historic Hanayashiki amusement park, the Sanja Matsuri and other seasonal events and sights in the area.  The last dance was the Sawagi which is said to be one of the most popular dances performed at traditional banquets.

Next, the fue and tsuzmi player took to the stage to perform a haunting song about the summer rain that was the highlight of my evening.  The talented flautist used two different styles of bamboo flute during her performance that was charged with emotion and, for me, the provided the “feeling” that our host for evening described.

Two entertaining Geisha games rounded out the evening.  After a brief explanation of the rules and a demonstration, guests were invited to join the Geisha on stage and join in the fun.

The first game, Tosenkyo,  involved throwing a Japanese folding fan at a small “butterfly” target set upon a pillow (pictured above).  It was a lot of fun, but not as easy as you might think!

The second game, Tora-Tora-Tora (tiger-tiger-tiger), is similar to Jan Ken Pon (rock, paper, scissors) but involves a lively dance performed by two players on opposite sides of a folding screen and culminates with each opponent striking the pose of either a samurai warrior, a tiger or an old woman.  The samurai beats the tiger, the tiger beats the old woman, but the old woman beats the warrior as she is his mother.

After the entertainment portion of the evening the four Geisha made a visit to each table and were very happy to answer questions (through bilingual hostesses) and show off their beautiful kimonos.

While the performances were all in Japanese, our host for the evening offered introductions in English that enhanced our understanding and enjoyment of the dances, music and games.  The evening was a lot of fun and offered a rare and interesting look into the world of the traditional Geisha arts.

You too can spend an evening amongst Geisha in Tokyo!  In fact, Muromachi Fukutokujuku is offering a Summer Special in for the month of August where the usual fee of Y12,000 per person is cut in half, to Y6,000.

Muromachi Fukutokujuku “Nihonbashi the Omotenashi Experience”

Schedule: April & May – 2nd and 4th Saturdays, June through September 1st and 3rd Saturdays.

Fee: Y12,000 per person – performances below at special Summer rates of Y6,000 per person:

August 1, 2009 features Geisha from the Kagurazaka district and a performance of Shinnai, a style of joruri (narrative singing), accompanied by the shamisen.

August 22, 2009 features Geisha from the Kagurazaka district and a performance of Daikagura, a performing art that pays tributes to the Gods and exercises evil spirits on behalf of those who may not be able to visit Shinto Shrines in person and includes performances of koma mawashi (top spinning) and kasa mawashi (umbrella spinning).

Programs: Ohayashi (the program I attended), Houkan (male Geisha, of which there are only five in Japan), Shinnai and Daikagura (both described above). The six Geisha districts listed at the beginning of this article rotate through the different programs.

Time: Registration starts at 5:45PM and the program runs from 6PM through to 7:30PM or slightly later.

Dress Code: Smart Casual (no shorts, ripped jeans, t-shirts or sandals for men)

Access: Two minute walk from Mitsukoshimae Station on the Hanzomon line of Tokyo Metro.

Information: Download the PDF for Nihonbashi the Omotenashi Experience Access and program information (page 1 & page 2)

Reservations: Via email to rsv [at] tokyo-kimonoclub [dot] com or via fax to 03-5642-6087 (Japan)

Many thanks to Takehara-san and Etsuko from Tokyofoodcast for providing me with the opportunity to attend “Nihonbashi the Omotenashi Experience” and share it with you.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection

Accompanied but the thundering sound of beating drums, the music of bamboo flutes and shouts of “rasseera” by Haneto dancers this is more than just a parade.  It is a dramatic six night festival that is considered one of the best in Japan as evidenced by the three million people that visit annually.  The Aomori Nebuta Festival culminates on the final evening when a large toro, lantern, is floated out to sea, symbolically taking evil spirits with it, as large and colorful display of fireworks light up the night sky.

Some historians believe that this event is a local variation of Tanabata celebrations, and others think it originated with a general who created large creatures to scare away rebels in the area sometime in the 800′s.

Japan in Motion offers a great video of the festival and says that “The Aomori Nebuta Festival is, unquestionably, one of the most visually dramatic, energetic, and well attended festivals in all Japan”.  More than thirty nebuta floats participate each year – each takes up to a year to construct and some tower five meters above the street and are spun about by their handlers as they move along the parade route.

Visitors are encourage to participate with area vendors renting Haneto costumes for around Y5,000 per person.

Hirosaki, also in Aomori prefecture, also hosts its won festival, the Neptuta Festival, where a much quieter, but no less impressive, version of the events in Aomori take place.

The Aomori Nebuta Festival takes place from August 2nd through the 7th and the Hirosaki Neputa Festival starts a day earlier, on the first, and also ends on the 7th.

Visit the Japan Nation Tourist Organization website for Nebuta Festival access information for both sites.

Image Credit:  Flickr, Aomori Nebuta festival, Japan [2008], 2006-0802 (191) & Hirosaki Neputa festival, Japan [2008]

The big blue tuna billboard (pictured on the right) is an iconic sign marking the entrance to the bustling narrow alleyways that crisscross an area that is approximately three square blocks.  It’s still a hectic place with many carts, forklift and people scurrying about so you need still need to keep your wits about you when you visit.

The Tsukiji morning market sells more than just fish – fresh fruit, vegetables, tsukemono (pickled vegetables), dried fish, knives, tea and a variety of cooking utensils and implements cab be found in the market area.   Below are soybeans (edamame) and wasabi root.

But the fish is and shell fish is definitely the star of the show at the market with a variety that is quite amazing.

Some ika (squid) and sea urchin (uni)…

Fish selling for Y100 per piece and some more shellfish…

The Tsukiji morning market is a feast for the eyes and your other senses.  If you are in the area and up early it is worth the effort to make the trip.

Many vendors offer samples of their product (some for free) so if you are up for bran pickled vegetables, a little unagi (freshwater eel), ramen, tempura or sushi for breakfast then you are in for a treat!

Keep in mind that much of the area is shuttered by lunch time.  Like the Tsukiji Wholesale Market itself if you have limited mobility (use a cane, wheelchair or walker) or are with small children you may find the experience frustrating and even a bit frightening due to the narrow passageways and hectic crowds.

Click on the images below to navigate a slide show of the images that I took during my early morning Tsukiji adventure.

 

Image Credit:  Personal Collection

It’s sure to be a heart-pumping, adrenaline filled three days for the participants and those who attend this ancient festival in Japan’s Tohoku region.

The main events take place on Hibarigahara Moor and at the Ota and Odaka Shrines, both located in Minami-Soma City, as well as at the Nakamura Shrine located in Soma City.

Soma Noma-oi Festival Schedule

The Soma Noma-oi Festival takes place from from July 23rd through July 25

July 23rd – horsemen’s entry to the field, evening ride, and Soma Bon dance parade

July 24th (main day of the festival):

• 9:30-11AM Ogyoretsu – a procession of 500 warriors on horses marching through the streets to Hibarigahara grounds
• 12 Noon Koshiki Kacchu Keiba – samurai horsemen clad in armor and helmets, and carrying katana swords race on horseback over a distance of 1,000 meters.
• 1-1:3-PM Shinki Sodatsusen – Hundreds horsemen in ancient armor and helmets race to retrieve Shinki (Shrine flags) shot into the air with fireworks.
• 7:30-8:30PM Hi-Matsuri – a fire festival is held featuring a fireworks display held in Odaka.

July 25th -  9AM-12Noon Nomagake features young men in white costumes trying to capture wild horses bare handed for the dedication to the Shrine.  (Odaka Shrine)

Soma Noma-oi Event Map (text in Japanese)

Soma Noma-oi Festival Access: Just over 3 hours JR Joban Line Limited Express “Super Hitachi” from JR Ueno Sta. to Haranomachi Station.  From Haranomachi Station take the JR Joban Line to Odaka Sta.

Online guide to the Soma Noma-oi Festival

Image Credit:  Flickr, Samurai