Over time ukiyo-e developed into popular art form and the subjects of the prints broadened. The equivalent of today’s movie poster were Yakusha-e or woodblock prints of kabuki actors in popular roles and Bijin-ga illustrated beautiful women of Edo.

In the early days, wood block prints were one color with two and three color prints first created in the 1740′s followed by multi-color called nishiki-e (brocade picture) in the early Meiji period.  Hiroshige’s 100 Views of Edo created during the first half of the 1800′s combined images of daily life in Edo, now Tokyo, with iconic landscapes and places.

Ukiyo-e offers a glimpse into life in early japan through its stunning visiual representation of the clothing, events and customs of the time.

How Ukiyo-e Are Created

Making traditional ukiyo-e (woodblock) prints is a complex process that involves the work of at least three artisans:

1. The ukiyo-e artist sketches the design with sumisen (ink lines)
2. The horishi (carver) pastes the sketch on a block made of wild cherry wood and carves out the design. This block, called a sumiita (ink plate), is only for printing the black outline.
3. Other blocks are then carved out, one for each color; these are called iroita (color plates).
4. The surishi (printer) applies color on the blocks under the artist’s supervision. The light colors and largest areas are printed first followed by darker colors and small details.
5. Sheets of paper are then pressed on each woodblock to create the design.  Each block has a marking on the same spot relative to the finished picture to ensure that the image remains aligned throughout the process.

The artisans are so skilled that it is often hard to discern the steps or block used to create a high quality multi-color woodblock print.  It’s hard not to appreciate the beauty if the resulting prints once you are aware of the painstaking process required to create them.

Ukiyo-e in Museums

Visitors to most major museums in Japan will enjoy perusing a selection of famous ukiyo-e prints but one of the best collections of prints is not found in Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka but in a city in northern Japan better know for its ski slopes than its contribution to the art world.  The Japan Ukiyo-e Museum is located in Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture and is home to the largest private collection of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), paintings screens and old books in the world.  Over the course of five generations the Sakai family has amassed an amazing collection of over 100,000 pieces.

In Tokyo, visit the Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of Art or the The Adachi Institute of Woodcut Prints.

Ukiyo-e for Kids of All Ages

Kids-web Japan has a gallery of some famous woodblock prints and you can even create your own virtual Ukiyo-e to see if you have mastered the process.

Image Credit:  Wikimedia, Utamaro1, Red Fuji southern wind clear morning by Katsushika Hokusai & Dai-ichi no Gekijō Shintomi-za from Tōkyō Meisho by Hiroshige Utagawa III

Noh was developed in ancient Japan and has been refined and performed since the Muromachi period (1333－1573).  A Noh play features a main actor and a small supporting cast of actors and musicians telling a tale that cane be set in reality, genzai no, or based on fantasy, mugen no. The main character wears an elaborately carved mask appropriate for his character and utilizes stylized movements (kata) and chanting (utai) to tell a tale that is often based on stories found in classic Japanese literature and is accompanied by traditional music.

“Noh is a kind of symbolic drama colored with the graceful aesthetic effect of quiet elegance that is expressed through the word yugen (“elegant, refined, and elusive beauty”). Its subjects are taken from history or classical literature, and it is structured around song and dance”

Today, Noh along with Kyogen, is recognized as a  Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO and is performed at the National Theater of Japan in Tokyo, Osaka and Okinawa at various times during the year.

For a less formal, but equally impressive performance look for outdoor events like those performed on Sado Island in the Chubu Region of Japan or the annual performance in the garden adjacent to Osaka Castle.  This year features a Noh play telling the story of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, a military commander in the Heian period (794-1192), and his mistress Shizuka Gozen as well as a performance of Kyogen followed by the lighting of bonfires around the stage and a dramatic illumination of Osaka Castle.

Noh at Osaka Castle Event Details:

Date: Thursday, August 27, 2009

Time: 6PM (will be postponed to the following day in case of rain)

Venue: Nishi no Maru Garden on the grounds of Osaka Castle (Osaka Castle Access Map)

Tickets: Advance tickets, which are available at major ticket outlets, are 3,600 yen for adults and 2,000 yen for university and high school students. Tickets at the door are 4,500 yen and 2,500 yen, respectively.  (Event details from Daily Yomiuri)

Image Credit:  Wikimedia, File:春日神社ー篠山ー翁奉納P1011774 & Flickr, Kagura Source: National Theater of Japan, What is Noh & Kyogen?

Late July and early August is Obon season in Japan, a time when Buddhists honor their ancestors with Obon Festivals and Bon Odori (Bon dances) that stems from the tale on a monk named Mokuren.  One day while meditating Mokuren saw his mother suffering, whenever she touched food it burst into flames, and he appealed to Buddha to save his mother from a fate of starvation in the Hell of Hungry Ghosts.  Buddha instructed Mokuren to offer food to his fellow monks and he did so, freeing his mother and seven generations of his family from their suffering.  Obon festivals have taken place in Japan since 657AD.

“Obon is a time to remember and honor all those who have passed on before us. It is a time to appreciate all that they have done for us and to recognize the continuation of the influence of their deeds upon our lives. Obon is also a time of self-reflection; the joy one feels is not from the happiness of getting what you desire, but the joy of being shown the truth — the joy of awareness.”*

You can witness a Bon Odori at the Shinagawa Prince Hotel this weekend (Friday, July 31st through Monday, August 3rd) in Tokyo this weekend.  The event takes place from 6-9PM weather permitting.

The Shinagawa Prince Hotel is a two minute walk from Shinagawa Station (Takanawa Exit). Shinagawa Prince Access Map

* Brief History and Meaning of Bon Odori
Image Credit:  Flickr, Bon Festival Dance

Koike is the current president of the Japan Etegami Society, and may rightly be considered the father of the modern etegami movement. The etegami motto, which he made famous, is “heta de ii, heta ga ii” (roughly translated: It’s fine to be clumsy. In fact, the best etegami are clumsy!)  Encouraged by this motto, more and more ordinary folk–people who don’t think of themselves as “artists”– both young and old, have taken up etegami as an enjoyable and relaxing pastime. If you google “etegami,” you are likely to find an increasing number of non-Japanese references to it, evidence that its popularity is gradually spreading to other parts of the world.

For those who would like to give it a try, etegami classes are usually offered at neighborhood community and culture centers, and may be sponsored by the Japan Postal Service or even newspaper publishers. There are ample opportunities to participate in etegami exhibits, which regularly take place at local post offices and the lobbies of city hall and ward offices.

YouTube features a nice series of etegami lessons with English subtitles. They feature etegami instructor Hanaoka Yuko, who also has her own website. Search YouTube for “Etegami 24 Seasons,” and you’ll find the whole set, each on a different theme or check out the etegami gallery on the Japan Etegami Society website.

I started my own blog, “dosankodebbie’s etegami notebook,” with the purpose of sharing the world of etegami to the English-speaking world. This is where I post samples of my work and discuss tools and techniques. I also regularly post interesting links and contest information on the Facebook group page “Etegami Fun Club.”

There are very few hard-and-fast rules to etegami. The traditional tools include writing brushes, sumi ink, gansai color blocks, and absorbent washi postcards, but non-traditional tools are acceptable. However, if it doesn’t have both drawing and words, it isn’t an etegami. Etegami are meant to be sent, rather than hoarded or displayed in frames.

The grass-roots popularity of etegami makes it a perfect medium for promoting civic events and other advertising targeted at the general population. In the year since I started keeping track, I have found dozens of etegami contests. Last year in June, the city of Nagoya announced an etegami contest on the theme of “Scene with a view of the Nagoya TV Tower.” Later that fall, the Gero Onsen Association called for etegami submissions on the theme of hot spring bathing. This May, “Fude-no-sato-Kobo,” a Hiroshima-based maker of writing brushes announced an etegami contest on the theme of “thankfulness.” Many of these contests offer substantial cash prizes.

Etegami contests are also a regular part of the promotional strategy of the Olympics. The Beijing 2008 Olympics was promoted with an etegami contest, which called for submissions with the catch phrase, “Let’s participate in the Beijing Olympics through Etegami!“  Etegami were sent in from all over the world for this contest. Currently, Tokyo is promoting its candidacy for the 2016 Olympics with exhibits of 800 etegami. The Ozaki West Gallery exhibit ended on June 14, but you can still catch it at the Osaka Etegami Hall from July 14 to 18.

This article was written by Deborah Davidson, Hokkaido-based translator and Etegami artist. Read more about etegami at dosankodebbie’s etegami notebook and about translations of Ainu folklore at Project U-e-peker.

Image Credit:  Deborah Davidson personal collection & Shane Sakata personal collection (Tokyo2016 Etegami)

Traditional Japanese houses are wooden structures that are built around vertical columns with floors that are raised above the ground to protect the house and its occupants from ground moisture.  The typical sloping roofs with wide eaves were originally covered with straw or shingles but today most are covered with distinctive tiles called kawara that protect the house from the elements. Wooden floors are supported by horizontal beams and are covered with tatami (rice straw) mats in the living areas.  Large communal spaces in the homes are partitioned off, as needed, with sliding shoji doors, a lattice door lined with paper.

Central heating or cooling was not an option in a traditional Japanese home.  In the summertime, strategically placed exterior shoji doors would be opened wide to create cross ventilation so that the heat and humidity was somewhat mitigated.  In the winter, kotatsu, a heated table covered with a futon, were used to keep the occupants warm.  Today’s kotatsu are electric but historically coal was used as the heat source.

Today you can find many lovely examples of shinden-zukuri, a particular style of Japanese home dating back to the 11th century, throughout the country.  They are often used as teahouses or ryokan and feature a symmetrical design with long hallways around the perimeter of the structure allowing access to the interior rooms and open to the outdoors so that the occupants could enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings.

Common features in traditional Japanese homes and ryokan include the tokonoma, a small alcove near the entrance (genkan) or in the main living room, that usually contains vertical scroll featuring calligraphy or Japanese panting and an ikebana flower arrangement.  You won’t find chairs, couches or beds in a traditional Japanese Ryokan either – residents relax on zabuton (large square cushions), dine at low tables known as zataku and sleep on a futon placed directly on the tatami covered floor.

If you would like to experience staying in a ryokan an your next trip to Japan the Japan Ryokan Association offers a directory of Ryokan by Prefecture and an informative guide on how to enjoy a stay at a Ryokan.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection & Flickr, Daitoku-ji Teahouse & Tea Setting

If you want to learn more about traditional Japanese way of life you will definitely want to enter to win a copy of Urawaza, Secret Everyday Tips and Tricks from Japan by from Japan Discovered! And, if you are planning a trip to Japan and have questions be sure to take part in the first ever Japan Travel Tweetchat on Friday June 5th from Noon – 1PM on Twitter.

“Budo, the Japanese martial ways, have their origins in the age-old martial spirit of Japan. Through centuries of historical and social change, these forms of traditional culture evolved from combat techniques (jutsu) into ways of self-development (do).” Source:  Nippon Budokan Official website, Budo Charter

In ancient Japan fighting was done with the hands and later with swords as well as the bow and arrow – all of these skills make up what we now know as the martial arts of Japan.  Over the centuries a number of different schools or styles emerged, nine of which are now officially recognized by the Budo Charter.  While the weapons and forms of fighting may be different all the sports seek the perfect unity of mind and technique.

Judo

Jigoro Kano combined what he considered the best of Jujitsu, a form of wrestling, with mental discipline and established in Judo 1882.  Men’s Judowas officially recognized as an Olympic Sport at the Tokyo Olympics in 1964 and the women followed at the 1988 Seoul Olympics.  Today more than 180 countries are active in the International Judo Federation.

Kendo

The concept of Kendo (pictured above right) is to discipline the human character through the application of the principles of the Katana (sword).  A shinai is a flexible bamboo pole that is used to represent a sword with the goal of the sport to obtain “shin-ki-ryoku-itchi (unification of mind, spirit and technique)” utilizing the weapon.  The All Japan Kendo Foundation is a great resource for those who want to learn more about the sport.

Jukendo

Not as common as Kendo, Jukendo is a similar martial art that employs wooden poles replicating bayonets rather than using the shinai used in kendo.

Kyudo

Kyudo is a form of archery and literally translated mean “Way of the Bow”.  The practice is said to have developed base upon the hunting techniques used by the Yayoi people as early as 250 BC.   The bow is considered a symbol of authority and to wield one skillfully at the time provided the bearer with much political power.  Like other Japanese Budo, modern Kyudo is practiced primarily as a method of physical, moral, and spiritual development and the perfect shot is said to exist before the arrow strike the center of the target. Learn more about this ancient sport at Kyudo.com.

Sumo

Probably one of Japan’s most famous sports, Sumo  is a specialized form of wrestling that has a history dating back prior to 720 when it was mentioned in the Nihon shoki (Chronicle of Japan).  Sumo was first practiced as part of religious ceremonies patronized by the Imperial Court in Nara.   Today Sumo Basho (tournaments) are held across the country throughout the year and are watched by millions in television.  The Grand Sumo home page offers some great information for those who want to learn more about the unofficial “national sport” of Japan.

Karate

The Japan Karate Association dates the practice of Karate to Okinawa as te over 500 years ago.  Karate-do literally means “the way of the empty hand” and practitioners use no weapons to attack and defend, only the hands, feet, and body. (pictured top right).  If you visit Tokyo it is possible to practice at the Tokyo Karate Dojo.

Kenpo

Kenpo is a form of Karate that is also practiced unarmed.  Literally translated as “Fist Law”, Kenpo (pronounced “kempo”) is thought to have come to Japan from China over 700 years ago.  Kenpo Karate is a good resource for those who want to learn more about the sport and it’s history.

Aikido

The Aikikai Foundation says “Aikido movement maintains this firm and stable center with an emphasis on spherical rotation characterized by flowing, circular, dance-like motions. These pivoting, entering and circling motions are used to control and overcome the opponent. The principle of spherical rotation makes it possible to defend one self from an opponent of superior size, strength, and experience.”  Similar to the martial arts of Judo and Karate, Aikido is practiced unarmed.

Naginata

Dating back to the 6th century, Nagingata is practiced with a a long pole with a sharp curving sword blade at one end.  With the advent of rifles the use of Nagingata as a method of combat was relegated to women and priests (pictured above right).

“By the Edo period, when the naginata was hardly ever used in combat, it became the representative weapon of samurai women. They would engage in training in order to polish the virtues of Harmony, Order, Chastity and Moderation” Source: What’s Nagigata?

Budo

As the overarching term describing the martial arts of Japan, Budo incorporates the precepts of Zen Buddhism and encourages practitioners and teachers of the various official sports to “build their character, enhance their sense of judgement, and become disciplined individuals capable of making contributions to society at large.”

Respect, courtesy and self-control are valued traits in the practice of Budo and the Nippon Budokan advocates these nine sports as a way to enhance these characteristics outside of the dojo (ring) where they are taught.

Image Credit:  Flickr, Nikkei Rio Expo – Apresentações de artes marciais, Kendo, Arqueira, Karate kata, Apresentacao de Aikido & IBU rhythm naginata final pose

On November 9th, 1934 the fourth game of the series was played in Sendai at Miyagi Prefecture Yagiyama Baseball Stadium.  Babe Ruth slammed two home runs in Japan that day, his first ever in the country.  One exited the stadium to the right of the scoreboard and the other to left field.

These historic home runs are commemorated with a statue and plaque on the site, which is now home the the Yagiyama Zoo in Sendai.  The  statue created by Kanji Okina was erected on the site in November 2002, sixty-eight years after the fact, with an inscription that reads in part  “This bronze statue stands as a witness, to future generations, of Sendai’s part in Japanese-American baseball history”.

“Baseball was first played in Japan in 1873 at Kaisei Gakko ( now Tokyo University ) under the instruction of an American teacher, Horace Wilson. Around 1880 the first Japanese baseball team was organized at the Shimbashi Athletic Club, and several college teams were formed in Tokyo. During the period 1890 to 1902, a team from the First Higher School in Tokyo played and often defeated a team made up of American residents in Yokohama; the publicity for these games helped make baseball one of the most popular Western sports in Japan.”
Source:  Nisei Baseball – Baseball in Japan

Baseball fans and history buffs will definitely want to visit the Babe Ruth statue in Sendai and the Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum, located further south in Tokyo, where the poster from the trip (pictured top right) is displayed along with other great exhibits on the history of baseball in Japan.  Yagiyama Zoo is easily accessed by bus or taxi from Sendai Station.  Admission is Y400 for adults and Y100 for children.

Andrew Yamaguchi included this image in his Yagiyama Zoo slide show on his blog, Squamton.ca, and was kind enough to allow it to be published here.  Be sure to check out his site and follow Andrew on twitter to get fun updates about life in Sendai, Japan.

Image Credit:  Shane Sakata Personal Collection & Andrew Yamaguchi

It is believed that these dolls were originally created by woodwork artisans known as kijiya who made them to sell to the tourists who flocked to the onsen (hot springs) in the area each winter.  Now they can be found throughout Japan and, today, kokeshi dolls are considered to be one of the traditional folk arts of Japan.

These whimsical wooden dolls with sweet hand-painted expressions will capture your heart.  Traditional kokeshi dolls have no arms or legs and in their simplest from they consist of a long cylindrical body upon which rests a round head.   Both the body and the head are hand painted with the body often painted in bright floral patters or with traditional scenic images of Japan and the face consisting of a few that lines somehow give each doll its own character.  Some are solemn and others playful and joyous in appearance.

Since World Ward II the look of the kokeshi doll has been expanded to include rotund kokeshi and more elaborate versions of the dolls appear to be dressed in a kimono or other traditional attire and have hair in wooden relief.  The shape, size and motifs that adorn modern kokeshi dolls are only limited by the creativity of the maker.  All are beautiful in their own way.

Kokeshi dolls can be found in stores throughout Japan and range significantly in price.  A mid size kokeshi doll can be purchased for Y2,000 – Y3,000 (USD 20-30) while larger versions from specialty makers with intricate hand-painting can cost much, much more.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection & Flickr, Kokeshi

Incense, or koh, was brought to Japan in the 6th century from China by Buddhist monks who incorporated the distinctive aromas into their purification rites.  Over time the practice of burning koh expanded from the temples to the Imperial Court of Japan.  Many hours of enjoyment came from a game called Takimonoawase which featured competitions amongst the nobility to create the best fragrance from different combinations of flowers, fruit and wood. Later on prominent intellectuals of the day along with affluent merchants and landowners became enamored with koh and the practice of koh-do was formalized and passed down though the generations.

“The opportunity to calmly contemplate one’s thoughts while enjoying the fragrance of incense is valued as a time to recover one’s spiritual freedom and peace.”

The practice of koh-do, the way of koh, can take as long as thirty years to master.  The proper way to prepared the koh, hold the incense cup (kiki-gouro) and even the presentation of the ash (kouro-bai) is defined. In koh-do,  it is said that one listens to aroma of the incense.

The 10 Virtues of Koh (Incense)

1. Promotes communication with the transcendent
2. Purifies the mind and body
3. Has a cleansing effect
4. Keeps one alert
5. Is a companion in solitude
6. Offers a moment of peace in the midst of chaos
7. When it is plentiful, one never tires of it
8. When it is scarce, one can still be satisfied
9. Effective, even when aged
10. Used daily, it does not harm

Source: Nippon Kodo, Culture of Incense

The aroma of the koh can be classified by origin and essence.  The essence of koh is classified as hot, sweet, sour, bitter or salty and it can originate from one of six ancient East Asian countries that grow the wood to make the koh (Kyara, Rakoku, Manaka, Manaban, Sumotara or Sasora).

While the the aroma of sandalwood in most commonly associated with incense, the variety is only limited by the skill and imagination of the incense maker.  The fragrances of aloeswood, clove, cinnamon and frankincense are just a few of the others appreciated by those who practice koh-do.

Experience koh-do for yourself in Tokyo at the Center for Arts and Well Being.

Image Credit:  Flickr, An Offering

Shunbun no hi

While the origin of Haru no Higan is unknown, it has been celebrated since the 8th century when the Emperor of Japan mandated it’s observation.

So how do the Japanese spend Shunbun no hi?  Many people head back to their hometowns and spend a portion of the day tending to the graves of their ancestors according to ancient Buddhist tradition. In Buddhism, the term higan means “other shore” and refers to the belief that there is a river between this life an the next.

“This river is full of illusion, passion, and sorrow, and only by crossing to the other shore can one gain enlightenment and enter nirvana. It is said that, when night and day are equal the Buddha appears on earth to save stray souls and help them make the crossing.”

Source: Shunbun-no-hi (Higan)

To help their ancestors make the crossing, family members visit the cemetery to pray, weed graves, wash tombstones, light incense and leave flowers.  According to tradition, food, in the form of ohagi or botamochi (sweet rice balls covered with red bean paste), is left to help nourish their ancestors journey to the next world.

Pictured below are cemetery buckets, marked with family crests, that will get put to good use on Shunbun no hi.

Given Japan’s long history as an agricultural society the spring equinox is also celebrated by Japanese farmers and is an opportunity to pray for abundant and healthy crops.  The celebration of higan and the associated changing of the seasons is so ingrained in society that it is memorialized in a common Japanese proverb:

“Atsusa samusa mo Higan ma de”

Heat and cold last until Higan

Image Credit:  Personal Collection