River fishing for salmon is strictly regulated here. Anglers must apply for permission several months a head of the actual season. In most cases applications can be made by postcard or via the Internet. Only a limited number of permits are issued for each river, so it is best to apply as soon as the application period opens. Some Japanese skills are required as only Hokkaido’s Churui River has applications in English.

The target of Japan’s salmon anglers is the chum. It is the second largest of the Pacific salmon, and considered by many to be pound-for-pound the best fighter. In addition, Hokkaido offers some world-class fishing for the small but scrappy pink salmon. Both species can be caught on flies, lures, or bait.

Fly-fishing outfits for chum salmon should be 8 to 10 weight with a sinking tip line. Rods should be at least 9 feet long. Some anglers prefer 13 to 16 foot two-handed rods. These longer rods can give better line control and casting distance, but can be tiring to use. For pink salmon, use 6 to 8 weight tackle. Red is the fly color of choice in Japan, but depending upon the conditions, pink, purple, and black can also be effective.

For lure fishing, spinning or casting gear can work equally well. Rods should be 7 1/2 to 9 feet (230 – 276 cm.) long. The usual choice of line is around 16 pound test nylon or fluorocarbon monofilament. The overwhelming favorite lure is a spoon. For most situations, 17 to 21 gram spoons will get down to the fish. On larger, swifter rivers, spoons as heavy as 40 grams might be used. Blue and red are the most popular colors. All lures must have single hooks. Many anglers attach a pink or red plastic squid (tako bait) to the spoon as an added attraction.

In Japan, bait fishermen prefer long very soft-action rods. Many choose 4.5 to 6 meter-long spinning rods, which are typically used for porgy (kurodai). Others favor 8 meter or longer poles without reels that are employed for catching the little smelt-like river fish called ayu. The standard bait is a slice of saury (sanma), a fish readily available in any supermarket. To make their bait more enticing, some anglers spice up it by marinating the slices in grated garlic.

It was a over decade ago right after a salmon fishing trip to Alaska that I saw a notice in a Tokyo tackle shop announcing sport fishing for salmon in Hokkaido’s Churui River. Since that time, I have been able to catch one of my favorite game fish here in Japan. With a little advanced planning, you too can enjoy catching salmon in Japan.

General Rules for Salmon Fishing in Japan

• Anglers must get a fishing permit in advance and register at the stream when they fish.
• With the exception of the special section of the Churui River, catch and release is forbidden. This includes fish that have been foul hooked.
• Anglers are required to report their catch. Catch and keep limits vary from place to place, so you need to know the regulations for the river that you are fishing.
• Bait, lure, and fly-fishing are all allowed, but only with single hooks. The use of treble hooks is prohibited.
• An angler may only use one rod at a time.
• Gaffs are not allowed, but short-handle landing nets are permitted.

Salmon Fishing Rivers in Japan (based on 2008 data)

Many of the resources listed below are in Japanese, so online translating tools such as Yahoo! Babel Fish may be helpful.

Other Japan Fishing Information

ANA Hokkaido Salmon Fishing Package
Teddy Saito – English speaking guide for salmon, trout, char, and taimen fishing in Hokkaido

This article was written by long-time Tokyo resident and life-long fishing fanatic, Alan Bergman. The images are from his personal collection.

The Tama River begins in the mountains of Yamanashi Prefecture and flows 138 kilometers eastward through Tokyo Prefecture emptying into Tokyo Bay next to Haneda Airport. The lower portion of the river forms the boundary between Tokyo and the neighboring city of Kawasaki.

Rapid post-war urbanization made the Tama River uninhabitable for many types of fish. Pollution control measures, the fitting of weirs with fish ladders, and the river’s official designation as a wildlife protection zone have greatly improved conditions, and have lead to a return of many species. Among them is the Far Eastern dace or maruta in Japanese.

Among anglers there are a number of fish that have been called “the poor man’s salmon” – easily available fish that offer some of the great sport of catching that aristocratic fish, but without the time, travel and expense required to pursue salmon. My nominee for the Japanese title is the maruta (Tribolodon brandti).
The Far Eastern dace is a member of the minnow family, but a minnow with pretensions. Like salmon, maruta spend most of their adult lives in saltwater migrating upriver to spawn and like salmon, they can be caught by sports fishermen with flies and lures. These mega-minnows grow to over 60 centimeters in length and are strong hard-fighters.

For much of the year the Far Eastern dace is silver-colored, but when spawning season arrives, this fish dresses for the occasion. Its color darkens and the maruta develops a black racing stripe with bright orange trim.

I found fishing for maruta very similar to stream fishing for pink salmon in Hokkaido and Alaska. Dace favor similar stretches of fast shallow water and the deeper pockets above and below them. As with salmon, it is necessary to cast above a school of fish bringing the fly or lure through it while keeping a tight line. The dace are more interested in spawning, so the fly must come with in a couple centimeters of the fish’s mouth if you hope to get a strike. Pulling the line up through the school from behind will result in snagging fish in the back or tail.

On a 3 hour Tama River fly fishing outing, I landed 43 maruta from 40 to 58 centimeters long. I also caught 4 carp which were following the spawning maruta to feed on their eggs. I was joined by my friend Ramon who met me at the river. There were several anglers on the Kawasaki side, but we had the Tokyo side to ourselves. Even though he is a beginner at fly fishing Ramon managed to land 11 fish.

Ramon kept fishing after I left. Afterwards he claimed that one of the dace that he caught looked bigger than the Japan Game Fishing Association record, a 2 kilogram fish from the Tama River, but because he didn’t know about the record at the time, he released the fish without weighing or measuring it. Ramon may still be a novice when it comes to the catching part of fishing, but he is definitely well on his way to mastering the storytelling part.

Far Eastern dace can also be caught with lures. Six pound (2.7 kg) or eight pound (3.6 kg) class spinning gear is a good choice. While they can be caught on plugs and spinners, spoons get the best results. Use a 5 to 7 gram spoon in silver or some combination of silver. Daiwa Chinook spoons and Daiwa Crusader spoons are good selections. Replace the treble hook with a single hook. Single hooks are less damaging to the fish and are less likely to get hung up on rocks.

The dace is a food fish in China and parts of Europe, but in my opinion, as table fare, the maruta is a fish that is probably best to release. They are extremely boney. If you want to cook dace, some style of deep-frying that will soften the bones such as tatsuda-age would be the way to go.

The breeding season for maruta is March through May. The main part of the Tama River’s spawning run seems to coincide with the blooming of the cherry blossoms. The best fishing spots are from around the Tomei Highway bridge up to the Shukugawara weir. By public transportation the area can be reached from the Nambu Line’s Kuji, Shukugawara, or Noborito Stations, or the Odakyu Line’s Noborito or Izumi-Tamagawa Stations. The river is about a 15 minute walk from the stations. If you are in Tokyo when spring rolls around, give Japan’s poor man’s salmon a try.

This article was written by long-time Tokyo resident and life-long fishing fanatic, Alan Bergman. The images are from his personal collection.

One of the highlights of my visit was the interior of a Meiji Era Public Bath House, Kodaka-yu,  that opened in Tokyo’s Adachi Ward in 1929.  The changing room looked out onto a courtyard and an elaborate mural spanned the separate men’s and women’s bathing areas.   The tile painting on the wall was considered very fashionable during the Showa and Taisho eras and was a common decorative feature of bathhouses at the time.

The exterior of the bathhouse has been restored to its original look (pictured top right) and the interior simulates how it would have appeared in the 1950′s.  One could get lost imaging disant travels in this mural of Mt. Fuji and it must have been quite the luxury to visit a nath house such as this.

The Edo Open-air Architectural Museum  is located in a large park where walking paths lead you past many building of historical importance.  You will find lovely Showa era houses built in the 1900′s, many of which were home to wealthy merchants and had separate tea houses and peaceful manicured yards.

Older still are a number of thatch-roofed houses from the Edo period (1603-1867) with indoor braziers (inori) that were used to smoke out the houses to keep the roof free of moisture and insects.

Religious markers and monuments can also be found on the museum grounds.  The Jishou-in Mausoleum (pictured below) was built in 1652 and originally sat inside the Jishou Temple in Ichigaya. Most of the mausoleums of the era were destroyed by firs during World War II making the a very important cultural asset.

The Edo Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum, also known as Tatemonoen (site in Japanese), sits in Koganei Park (scroll down the page) is located about 90 minutes outside of Tokyo.   Take a short taxi ride from Musashi Koganei Station on the JR Chuo Line or take the Seibu Bus from the Koganei Koen Nishiguchi Bus stop in front of the station.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection

Whether you are planning day trip to one of the mountains near Tokyo or a week long trek through the Japan Alps in Nagano, you will need to be prepared. Accommodation, weather and terrain are important issues to consider when planning to climb the beautiful mountains of Japan.

Staying On The Mountains

Japan boasts an extensive and well-maintained system of mountain huts. These range from simple unmanned structures, often maintained by local clubs and free to use (although often with a voluntary donation box) to hotel-like structures that can sleep literally hundreds with full bed and board.

Typically, a manned hut will offer a futon and dinner, from Golden Week in late April to mid-November, for around Y7000 per person. Many offer a “sudomari” option to those with their own sleeping bag and food for around half that price. The larger huts may offer a private rooms, but in most cases both sexes bed down in one or two large tatami dorms (snorers abound – earplugs are sine qua non for a good night’s sleep). Reservations are advisable, but not necessary; for safety, the huts do not turn people away.  In high season the mountain huts may get very crowded indeed and it’s not unusual to hear tales of huts so full that the guests must all sleep on their sides.

The manned huts on the higher peaks tend to close for the winter months but they may leave an outhouse or the entrance to the hut unlocked for winter climbers, but this should not be assumed. The unmanned huts are open all year, but they should not be relied upon as the sole means of shelter; doors have been known to freeze shut, or entire huts disappear under heavy snow or be washed away in heavy rains. Chemical or drop toilets are available at each hut.

Campsites are typically available at, or close to, the huts for around Y500 per tent per night. Wild camping is discouraged in the summer months, while in winter campers should be careful to avoid avalanche prone locations.  While Japan does not operate a strict “carry-out” policy, it is only fair (not to mention hygienic) that visitors to its mountains exercise common sense and observe accepted waste disposal rules.

Terrain and Navigation

On average, the tree-line in Japan runs to just over 2000 meters (6000 feet), although this naturally diminishes the further north one travels. While patches of primeval forest remain, in the main the forests are more recent mixes of coniferous and deciduous trees, or managed plantations (frequently Japanese cedars, cryptomeria japononica). Care should be taken not to damage alpine flora.

Above the treeline, expect to find extensive rock and boulder fields, generally granite or chert. Due care should be paid to warning signs on those peaks which are still volcanically active, as well as ridges and peaks where erosion makes for unstable conditions and increases the risk of a serious fall.

In most cases, routes up the mountains are both well maintained and signposted (increasingly in English, Chinese and Korean as well). Shobunsha’s “Yama to Kougen” series of maps cover the Hyakumeizan and many of the surrounding areas, and are well produced on a 1:50,000 scale with trails and approximate times marked on them. They can be bought at most major bookstores. Yahoo maps (in Japanese) has a zoomable contour version, as do the countrywide maps at Denshi Kokudo (in Japanese) .

Where the route is indistinct, or used by winter climbers, it may also be marked with red ribbons or flags (aka-nuno) attached to trees, and on stonier ground it is not unusual to see red or yellow markers spray-painted onto rocks. The convention in Japan is to spray a large “O” to indicate a safe route, and and “X” to indicate a no-go area; on no account should you enter an area marked with an “X”.

Seasons

Japan experiences an enormous variety of weather conditions, depending upon the season and location.  At the extremes, the summer months are hot enough to require several liters of water to be carried with temperatures in the high thirties centigrade, while the winter months see temperatures as low as minus thirty and many meters of snow. It should also be noted that the summer months in Kyushu to the south and much of Honshu experience a prolonged rainy season and tropical typhoons, during which mountain travel is not advised on account of increased risk of landslides and flooding.

The interaction of complex weather systems from the Chinese and Russian mainland, combining with those from the Pacific and southern Asia, make weather forecasting in Japan more of an art than a science, and forecasts are prone to change with alarming rapidity. Climbers should be prepared for sudden changes in conditions, and plan accordingly.  Forecasts are available from the the Yahoo.co.jp and Tenki.jp websites as well as through all major media outlets.

Safety

With care and common sense, Japan’s mountains offer an exciting, beautiful and often unfamiliar glimpse of the country. However, there are risks.

Bears are found across Honshu and Hokkaido but there is little danger of attack as long as they hear you coming.  For this reason, many Japanese climbers have a small bell on their rucksack, or occasionally a portable radio, especially in the more dangerous pre-hibernation season. Capsicum spray is available at most outdoor stores.  Encounters with wild boar are rare, but they should be given a wide berth if encountered.

Snakes are not uncommon in the summer months, although only one species (the “mamushi”, gloydius blomhoffii) are venomous and care should be taken in long grass or concealed vegetation. Fatalities from bee swarms are also not unheard of, and climbers should be alert in forested areas, especially following heavy rainfall (when hives may have been disturbed).

Weather is also a concern and common sense rules apply to thunder and lightning. If it is raining in the summer months, then lightning strikes are usually not far behind, and fatalities are all to common. Typhoons are characterized by extremely high winds, and sometimes winter conditions even in autumn, and no travel should be attempted at these times. While water is often available at the huts in summer, temperatures can be high and UV strong; adequate water, sunscreen and long sleeved clothing is advised.

Japan also has more officially recognized avalanche zones than any other country on earth so winter climbing in snow should only be attempted with proper equipment and experience.

Flash flooding can make rivers and gorges dangerous in summer months, while monsoon rains increase the risks of landslide and rockfall. Fatal falls are common, and adequate attention should be paid especially on higher peaks and areas of severe erosion.

Many peaks and cliffs have fixed ropes, chains, and occasionally ladders; while these do no require technical equipment, the simple expedient of carrying a couple of webbing slings and karabiners to fashion a light harness and self-belay can add considerably to both safety and confidence on such routes. Helmets should be worn in areas where rockfall is a known danger (although you will often sadly be in the minority should you decide to wear one).

Go to the Mountains!

The mountains of Japan can offer thrilling views and amazing experiences, for one-day or multi-day (even multi-week) excursions – and given the volcanic underpinnings of these islands, frequently with an onsen (hot-spring bath) awaiting you at the end.

However anyone heading to the mountains should be prepared with adequate information, equipment and supplies; serious injury and fatal accidents are not uncommon, but with common sense and care, the risks can be largely mitigated.

The old mountaineering saying has it that summiting is optional, but getting down is mandatory, and this should be respected. As the sign at the trailhead of Mt Hou-ou says “Make sure you have the courage to turn back”.

A big thank you goes out to Chris for sharing his knowledge about mountain climbing in Japan.  Be sure to check in with him often on his blog I, CJW Hiking and Climbing in Japan – he’s always up for an adventure and tells great stories with pictures to match.

i, cjw Flickr Images used with permission: Kitadake rising, Chuzenji lake, from Mt Nantai & Rising Sun, Goryu-dake peak

Japan is one of the most crowded countries on earth: 120 million people crammed mostly onto the coastal plains which make up under 30% of the landmass. The corollary is that 70% of the country comprises sparsely inhabited mountains, some of them among the most beautiful and exciting in the world. Combine this with a first class transport system, and you have a recipe for a Japanese adventure which goes beyond the standard Blade Runner-esque scenery of Tokyo and ancient charms of Kyoto.

The sheer scope and variety of Japan’s mountains makes a short summary difficult; the below represents a Tokyo-centric view of non-technical mountaineering.

Geography

William Weston, the 19th Century missionary, coined the term “the Japan Alps” to describe the ranges that run across the center of Honshu, Japan’s largest island, and they remain the mecca for many of those seeking Japan’s highest points. The Alps are subdivided into three, the Northern, Central and Southern ranges, with the majority lying within the borders of Nagano prefecture in the Chubu Region of Japan.

They Japan Alps bear a strong resemblance to their European cousins, both being the product of massive tectonic upheaval, although Japan never experienced the glaciation which occurred in Europe.  The summits of the Japan Alps may be lower that those in Europe but they still boast over 13 peaks of greater than 3000 meters (10,000 feet) and in many cases the climbs start from much lower altitudes than is common in Europe.

Outside of the Alps, the Okutama and Nikko regions, to the north-west and north-east of Tokyo respectively, also offer year-round hiking and climbing opportunities, as do the Tanzawa and Takao ranges to the west.

Japan is still volcanically active, and moving further north up Honshu, the height of the mountains diminishes and the proportion of volcanic peaks increases as do the number of high-plains moors. The main northern-most island, Hokkaido, features several ranges which, although lower in stature than their southern brethren, are among the wildest and least traveled in Japan. The islands to the south of Honshu (Shikoku and Kyushu) also have notable ranges of around 1500-1700 meters, including one of the world’s largest volcanic calderas at Aso.

Hyakumeizan

No account of the mountains of Japan would be complete without mention of the Hyakumeizan, the Hundred Famous Mountains of Japan. Drawing upon a lifetime spent climbing, Fukada Kyuya penned his choice of the hundred most note-worthy mountains between 1959-63.  Collected together, his short essays about each was critically acclaimed and would go on to win him the Yomiuri Prize for literature. They are indeed the gold standard for mountaineering in Japan, and it is the aim of many climbers to summit each one (including none other than the current Crown Prince of Japan).

As Fukada makes clear, the mountains are not necessarily the hundred tallest in the land (although many of the highest peaks are represented in the list). They have been chosen for both their character and historic significance, too. An translation into English is slated for publication some time during 2009; details may be found, and much background information besides, at One Hundred Mountains.

The most comprehensive guides to the Hyakumeizan routes in English can be found at the Hiking in Japan and the Hanameizan site, which features the incredible Hana the Border Terrier. The Outdoor Japan site also hosts a semi-active forum for people seeking information or looking for guides and companions for outdoor activities in Japan.

Getting To The Mountains

From Tokyo, the Japan Alps are easily accessible by train, bus or car. The Chuo line from Shinjuku station traces a route along the foot of the mountains, and offers local, overnight, and express services.

Aspiring climbers will usually find themselves alighting around Kofu for the Southern Alps, Lina and Komagatake for the Central Alps, Matsumoto or Nagano for the Northern Alps. Buses run from these stations to the trail-heads, usually several times per day.

Alternatively the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo station runs to Nagano in under 80 minutes, and two highways put the Alps within three to four hours driving distance from central Tokyo by car or bus.

The Okutama ranges are accessible via the Seibu-Chichibu line from Ikebukuro, the Nikko ranges via the Tobu or Shinakensen lines from Ueno, both in around 90 minutes.

The ranges of Hokkaido and Kyushu are more serious endeavors and generally require a domestic flight (of which there are plenty each day from Haneda) and car hire at the other end, or a journey of six hours or more on the Shinkansen bullet train from Tokyo.

Train and flight timetables can best be located through Yahoo Japan (in Japanese), while bus timetables are best found by searching for the station and trailhead names in Japanese on any of the major search engines.

Next week, in Go to the Mountain in Japan Part 2 Chris will tell you how to prepare for your mountaineering adventure and offers tips on where to stay and what to bring with you.  In the meantime, take a moment to read about some of his adventure on his blog I, CJW Hiking and Climbing in Japan.

i, cjw Flickr Images used with permission: Sunrise over Fuji and Kofu City & Peaks of Mt. Hotakadake, dawn

In his own words:

“For we weekend mountaineers, time is precious; I’d climbed through the night on Friday from Shin-Hotaka, Nagano, to the ridge below Mt Kasa-ga-take under a starry sky, but already wisps of clouds were racing across the stratosphere. After a quick bivouac for a few hours I started out again into a blazing red sunrise, but already the first few drops of rain were falling. By mid morning I was climbing through a late summer storm, making the summits of both Mt Suisho-dake and Mt Washiba. From each I’d gazed out through the driving rain, trying to imagine the breathtaking panoramas that are supposed to be the reserve of those who made it to those lofty peaks.

Having given up hope, I started down the mountain to find somewhere to camp for the night, when the rain lifted for a few brief moments before sunset. The entire valley appeared, and in the distance, in the midst of those swirling clouds, rose Mt Yari-ga-take, the perfect spear that its name suggests.

It was as unexpected as it was memorable. Suddenly my wet boots and the prospect of another chilly night on the mountain didn’t seem so bad after all.”

Read more about Chris’s mountainous adventures in Japan on his blog  i,cjw – hiking and climbing in japan and see more fabulous photos from this trip in his article “Into the Mist“.  Chris was also recently featured in an interview at 7:10 to Tokyo where he shares what he loves about Tokyo along with some interesting tales on mountaineering and a close call with the Yakuza (Japanese Mafia).

This and other great images of Japan can be found in The Nihon Sun Japan Photo Gallery.

A day at Sumo begins around 8AM when the newest sumo wrestlers participate in a test competition called maezumo which earns them the right to to be listed on the banzuke, or official rankings, for the next tournament.  Next, the lower ranked wrestlers in the Jonokuchi and Makunuchi divisions compete.

Although tickets are good for the entire day many spectators choose not to arrive until around 2:30PM when the Juryo division performs the dohyo-iri, or formal ring entering ceremony. These wrestlers have earned the right to wear richly embroidered ceremonial silk aprons called kesho-mawashi that are beautiful to behold and can cost anywhere from 400,000 to 500,000 yen ($4,000-$5,000 USD).  The matches in this division are then contested followed by the official opening address at 3:30PM.  Just before 4PM the sumo wrestlers of the Makuuchi division perform their dohyo-iri and compete.

Apart from the actual matches, the highlight of the day and the most visually impressive ceremony is the Yokozuna dohyo-iri.  There are two Yokuzuna, or grand champions, and each man makes his entrance wearing a massive braided hemp rope over his kesho-mawashi that weighs between 25 to 35 pounds that is tied in an elaborate bow at the back and ornamented in the front with strips of paper hanging in a zigzag pattern. The yokuzuna is attended by a senior gyoji (referee) and two other wrestlers, one carrying a ceremonial sword.

The concluding rite of the day is the “bow dance” which became part of Sumo custom sometime during the Edo Period when a winning wrestler was awarded a prize of a bow and to express his satisfaction and appreciation performed this dance.

The banzuke or official rankings for the first tournament of 2009 will be issued on December 24th. Written in Kanji on washi paper, rankings can be purchased for around Y100 (US $1) at the stadium office and make a great souvenir when framed.

If you won’t be in Tokyo to catch the January 2009 tournament you may be able to arrange a trip to coincide with one of the other five Grand Tournaments scheduled throughout the year.

2009 Grand Sumo Tournament Schedule:

March 15-29 at the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium – advance tickets go on sale February 8th.

May 10-24 at the Ryogoku Kokugikan – advance tickets go on sale April 11th.

July 12-26 at the Aichi Prefectural Gymnasion in Nagoya – advance tickets go on sale May 14th.

September 13-27 at the Ryogoku Kokugikan- advance tickets go on sale August 8th.

November 15-29 at the Fukuoka Kokusai Center – - advance tickets go on sale October 10th.

January 2009 Grand Sumo Tournament Event Details:

Dates: January 11-25, 2009
Ticket Information: Prices range from Y3,600 for a single seat to Y61,800 for a box that holds 6 people. Tickets can be purchased at the venue or by phone.
Venue: Ryogoku Kokugikan – Tokyo, a 2 minute walk from Ryogoku station on the JR Sobu Line
Times:  From 8AM  – 6PM each day