I picked up two sets of  wooden chopsticks (five pairs) for Y500 each, a modern sashimi platter for the same price, small dishes perfect for tsukemono for Y200 each and some lovely aperitif glasses for Y100 each.  A friend and I walked either side of the street twice and waded through the bins, boxes and shelves stocked with everything imaginable.  Whether you are looking for lacquer ware miso soup bowls, Japanese tea pots, decorative ceramic sake flasks, tea or sake cups you will likely find it at the Setomono Ichi.

A lovely array of decorative ceramic pieces (like the items pictured above) were also on display and the the sidewalks were packed with many other Japanese dish loving shoppers like us.

If you love dishes don’t miss the Setomono Ichi – the event started yesterday and runs through Wednesday, August 5th from 9AM to 8PM.   Head for the Ningyocho Station on the Hibiya Line or Toei Asakusa Line or the Suitengu-mae Station on the Hanzomon Line.  The ceramic vendors can’t be missed along the main street between Suitengu intersection and Ningyocho intersection.

Visit the Chuo City Tourism Association website for a map of Ningyocho and to learn about other sites in the area.

Image Credit: Personal Collection

Orihime, the daughter of Emperor Tentei, was a skilled weaver and made lovely clothes for her father.  On day as she sat alongside the the river of heaven ( amanogawa – the milky way) she was overcome with sadness as she had been so busy with her weaving that she hadn’t had time to fall in love.   Tentei, believed to be the ruler of the heavens, witness her woeful state and arranged a marriage for her with Hikoboshi who lived across the river.  The couple was very much in love and were very happy but Orihime was neglecting her weaving.  This angered Tentei so much that he decided to separate the couple putting them back on opposite sides of the river.

Tentei decreed that the couple would only be allowed to see each other on one night each year – on the seventh day of the seventh month.  On that evening a boatman (the moon) comes to ferry Orihime over the river to her beloved Hikoboshi.  But if Orihime has not given her best to her weaving Tentei may make it rain causing the river to flood so the boatman cannot make the trip.  In this case the kasasagi (a group of magpies) may still fly to the milky way to make a bridge for Orihime to cross.

The Tanabata festival (also know as the star festival) celebrates the reuniting of these lovers separated by the milky way and the word tanabata can be translated as “weaving with the loom (bata) placed on the shelf (tana)”.

During the Tanabata festival sprigs of bamboo, sometimes small and sometimes the size of a tree, are hung with tanzuku, papers upon people write their wishes.  Traditionally people wish for improved technical skills and abilities in homage to the legend of Hikoboshi and Orihime.

Celebrate Tanabata in Japan

Bright and cheerful Tanabata decorations like those pictured above can be found throughout out Japan during July.  Look for festivals and other events, large and small, celebrating tanabata in the area you are visiting.  Here are just two:

Tokyo Tower

From July 1st-12th if you wear a yukata to Tokyo Tower you will gain free admission to the main observatory where you will see an illumination of the Milky Way along with the great city views.  You may also write attach your own tanzuku to the tanabata bamboo.  If it isn’t raining, free rickshaw rides and a souvenir picture will also be offered on July 4th (2PM – 6PM) and July 5th (11AM – 4PM).  Tokyo Tower itself will be illuminated in five Olympic colors on July 4th.

Tanabata Matsuri

The Shonan Hiratsuka Tanabata Festival will take place in Hiratsuka, Kanagawa Prefecture from July 2nd through the 5th.  Over 3,000 bamboo tanabata decorations will line the streets of the city and will be lit each night until 9:30PM.

Events during the festival period include a Kiyari-Matoi (firemen’s chant) parade on July2nd at Noon, a parade of Sennin Odori (a thousand of folk dancers) from 1PM – 3PM on July 3rd and a parade of “”Miss Orihime Tanabata”" (Beauty Queens) with brass bands marching from 10:30 am on July 4th.

Hiratsuka Station is located about 70 minutes outside of Tokyo on the JR Tokaido Line.

Legend Source: Orihime, Kengyuu, and Tanabata
Image Credit:  Flickr, センター街の七夕 by fumi & Wish

The scene consists of more than just the parade, though. Often, on the streets surrounding the shrine, there are games and foods and vendors of various types all hawking their wares with loud voices and strong lungs.

For a parent, Japanese or foreign, the scene can be a frightening one. The crowds alone are enough to cause panic. Figuring out how to get the most out of the experience while still keeping the kids safe, happy and well-fed can cause quite a quandary. But it doesn’t have to be that difficult.

First of all, bag the pram. In most places the crowds are so thick on the day of the matsuri that there is no way to navigate while pushing a toddler in a stroller. And for the toddler, it is frightening to look out into a sea of unfamiliar legs. For the child who is under two years old (or as long as you’re comfortable) try a backpack. There are the soft ones that literally strap the child to an adult’s back or the steel-framed hiking backpacks. If you use the hiking backpack, the child can actually experience the scene by looking over his or her parents’ heads.

Some strollers these days fold very small and weigh very little. These small ones often come with a strap for slinging over the shoulder. I’d highly recommend the Aprica version sold all over Japan at places like Akachan Hampo. It’s less than three kilos and slings comfortably enough to hold both stroller and child. If you can do this, then you can go a little bit into the crowd and then fold and carry the pram when the crowd thickens. This type of stroller is also useful when using the trains in Japan because often the stations only have steps, not escalators.

Older kids just need a firm hand holding theirs. In our family we end up with children on our shoulders to see above the crowd, too. The myriad of sights and sounds and smells could potentially overwhelm some children, but we have found that our kids (ages 9 and 6) revel in the experience and ask to go to a matsuri whenever there’s a chance.

After watching the parade for a while, make sure to see everything around it. Many places will have games for the kids. There’s one where they get a little colander and fish little toys out of a stream of water. There is the omnipresent water-filled, thick balloons on a stick to bounce. Often there are masks of various Japanese and non-Japanese characters to buy. Sometimes there are even small goldfish to win. Each area of Japan has their own way of catering to the children, so you’ll find different games in different places, but there will always be some way for parents to spend money and children to walk away with small prizes.

The food will be as varying as the number of shrines in Japan. Hot dogs, which Japanese refer to as sausages, will almost always appear along the walk of vendors. Most kids will be excited to eat that. Often men and women clad in yukata are sautéing noodles for yakisoba. It might differ in style between Kansai and Kanto, but okonomiyaki will most always put in an appearance at a matsuri. Sometimes referred to as a Japanese pancake and sometimes as Japanese pizza, the reality is somewhere between the two. It’s a flour-pancake base with heaps of veggies and some seafood heaped on top before folding over, omelet style. The sauce is slightly thick and sweet. Some kids might shy away from all the things that are in it, but if they’re remotely adventurous with food, they’ll love it! Especially as summer progresses, there will be sno-cones with as many as eight different flavor choices available. Buyers get to pump their own syrup right on their shaved-ice. It’s decadent!

All in all, a matsuri is a not-to-be missed experience, no matter what ages your kids might be. There are definitely ways in which the whole family can have the uniquely Japanese experience without any trauma. It will be a day to remember for everyone.

There are thousands of festivals in Japan every year – many small towns have their own shrines and accompanying festivals. Check the city or town’s website for a specific listing or peruse the Japan Event Calendar where you will find links to a number of festival listings as well as movie listings, and art & design events that you can add to your itinerary.

This article is by, writer and writing professor, Aimee Weinstein.  You can read more from Aimee on her website The Weekly Weinstein: Tales of Tokyo Life where she blogs about Tokyo, parenting and the intersection of the two.

Image Credit:  Flickr, Child, The ball catchers, YoyogiHachiman shrine & Stick Your Wieners, But Wrap ‘Em First

It is a traditional that was almost lost, according to The Japan Times, but has been revived for all to witness in Chiba and Ibaraki prefectures, part of the Kanto region of Japan .

A bride, in a traditional white bridal kimono is accompanied by her groom and paddle through the canals of local iris gardens.  It’s a beautiful sight that recreates the now outdated practice of a bride carrying their belongings to their new home by boat.

During the month of June, head out to see the brides paddled about amongst the irises as these two locations.

Maekawa Iris Garden

During the Itako Ayame Matsuri (Iris Flower Festival ) you can witness yomeiri-fune as well as Itako-Bayashi (festival music and dance) and Ayame-Odori (local Japanese dance) in Itako, Ibaraki Prefecture

Dates: May 23rd, 2009 to June 28th, 2009
Location: Maekawa Iris Garden (scroll down for garden information)
Transportation: Three minute walk from Itako Station (about 3.5 hours from Tokyo by train)
Events:
Yomeiri-fune:  11AM, 2PM and 8PM every Saturday, and 11AM and 2PM every Sunday during the festival period.
Itako-Bayashi (festival music and dance): 1PM – 2PM each Sunday during the festival period.
Ayame-Odori (local Japanese dance): 1:15PM to 1:45PM each Sunday during the festival period.
* subject to cancellation if it rains
Admission: Free

Suisei Shokubutsuen (Sawara Municipal Aquatic Botanical Garden)

Enjoy the irises and Yomeiri-fune at the Sawara Municipal Aquatic Botanical Garden in Katori, Chiba Prefecture.  (Katori Sightseeing map)

Yomeiri-fune dates: June 14th & June 20th (per The Japan Times)
Transportation: Close to Sawara Station (about 2.5 hours from Tokyo by train)  Access Map
Admission: Y200-700 (seasonal) for Adults and Y100-350 for those under 15
Garden Hours: Open 9AM -4:30PM (8AM.-7PM during the Iris Festival). Open every day in May and June. Closed in other months, every Monday, and from December 24 through January 4.

Image Credit:  Japan Photo Library ©Chiba-Prefectural Tourist Association/©JNTO, Yomeiri fune (Wedding Ship)

Of course there are always exceptions. One type of festival, held all across the country is known as Yosakoi-Soran. It’s unique for many reasons, chiefly that it was invented only about 17 years ago.  Yosakoi itself was only started after World War II, as a way to encourage economic growth. The word actually means “come”-Yo “at”-sa ”night”-koi. At first people mostly danced Bon-Odori, from the traditional Bon period in summer. Since then it has morphed to include several, more dynamic styles of music and dance steps. In 1991 a student from Hokkaido was visiting Kochi prefecture on the island of Shikoku and experienced the Yosakoi festival there.

The next year about 1000 students got together and, by incorporating the rhythmic sounds of Hokkaido’s, fishing based, traditional soran bushi music with the dynamic dance of Yosakoi, Yosakoi-Soran was born. The festival in Sapporo has grown to be the largest in Japan, hosting over 300 teams with, more than 50,000 dancers, and 1 million visitors.

Now, Yosakoi-Soran festivals are held all over Japan, throughout the year. They vary in size from small villages hosting a few teams of dancers in conjunction with another annual festival, to large cities like Sendai, which hosts the Michinoku Yosakoi Festival, and is the third largest festival in Japan. Many of the festivals have competitions, which actually require teams to include the use of tradtional Yosakoi naruko clappers, and also include Soran music in their routines. Experiencing a Yosakoi-Soran festival is a great way to see one of the most simple things that Japanese people do so well…enjoy life! You can participate too, by joining the sou-odori numbers, which usually occur throughout the day or at the end of each days dancing.

The Hitachinokuni Yosakoi Festival in Daigo (located in Ibaraki prefecture in the Kanto region of Japan), is held the third weekend in May every year. This year the 6th annual staging is this weekend May 16-17 and is expected to have as many as 80 teams and hundreds of dancers.  There are also plenty of great local places to eat and grab a nice soak in an onsen.

Access:

By JR- Take the Joban Line to Mito, changing  to the Suigun Line, to Hitachi Daigo. (Approximately 4 hours from Tokyo)

By Highway bus from Tokyo Station, Yaesu Guchi to Daigo Jidosha Gakko Mae. The highway buses are limited, so your best bet is train or driving.

By Car- National Hwy 6 or Joban Expy to Mito. Take National Hwy 118, and follow signs in English to Daigo.

The Hitachinokuni Yosakoi Festival website is in Japanese, but this map of Hitachi Daigo will help you find the venue. A free shuttle is available between venues on during the main event on Sunday.

There are also many other Yosakoi-Soran festivals all over Japan – why not attend one and jump into neo-Japanese culture. It’s sure to be a great time!

This post was written by Josh Fields who is living his dream in rural Japan.  Read more about Josh and adventures on his blog 者守(Josh) in Japan or follow Josh on Twitter.

Image Credit:  Josh Fields, used with permission

“Huge pink and black phalluses were paraded down the streets of this Japanese town in an annual fertility festival, as some 30,000 worshippers asked for blessings and protection from sexually transmitted diseases.”
Source:  Reuters, Phallic festival celebrates fertility in Japan

The Kanamara Festival dates back over three hundred years when prostitutes came to the shrine to ask for protection from syphilis and other sexually transmitted diseases.  Today, prayers are for fertility and protection from AIDS and the penis is the symbol of the festival. Volunteers carve daikon (Japanese radishes) in the the shape of the male and female sexual organs and offer them to the gods. 

Popular souvenirs from the event are phallus shaped candies and the area surrounding the shrine is decorated with images of the penis in all shapes and sizes!

This years festival will be help on April 5th and starts with a fire ceremony and the opening rites performed by a Shinto priestess.  After which a giant pink phallus will be loaded onto a mikoshi (portable shrine) and costumed participants will proudly and boisterously parade it through the streets.  This event goes on all day and long into the night.

It’s not your usual festival and certainly not one for the prudish!

How to get to the Kanamara Festival

From Shinagawa take a Keihin Kyuko (red) train towards Yokohama. Get off at Keikyu Kawasaki Station, go down the stairs and take a Daishi Line train three stops to Kawasaki Daishi Station. From there, walk across the street and you’ll find the shrine a few meters down on your right

From JR Kawasaki Station take the No. 23 bus for Daishi and get off at Wakamiya Hachiman-gu shrine.

Wakamiya Hachiman-gu Shrine Access Map – Kawasaki Daishi Station is located in the top right of the map near the number 18 and the shrine is in the red cross hairs at number 4.

Image Credit: P1010841.JPG & P1011672

The Japan Event Calendar offers timeless links to great events in Japan that are scheduled throughout the year.  A successful trip involves what we at The Nihon Sun call Cut & Paste Japan Trip Planning which allows you to create an itinerary that is customized based on your likes and dislikes – not those of guidebook authors.  Guidebooks are a great resource but due to publishing constraints they do not cover local events well.  That’s where the Japan Events Calendar comes in – browse through the events to find the ones that interest you and add them your “To-Do in Japan” list.

Since many visitors to Japan spend some time in Tokyo, the Japan Event Calendar also includes listings from Tokyo Art Beat, Tokyo’s art & design events calendar and Metropolis that does a great job covering nightlife in Tokyo and the music scene in the city.  You will also find links to some great antique and flea markets in the Tokyo Area.

The Nihon Sun Japan Event Calendar is your portal to some great events.  The temples, shrines and other tourist destination will always be there but some of these events only happen once a year and some of the exhibitions are one-time only. In fact, many of events and exhibitions are held at venues that may already be on your itinerary so you can really make your itinerary work for you by taking in an event or festival at one of the places on your “Must See in Japan” list.

It would be shame to come home from a trip only to read about an amazing event in the newspaper or online when you could have seen or experienced it in person. Be sure to check out the Japan Event Calendar today to make sure that doesn’t happen to you!

One of the most largest and famous events in Japan is the Kiku Ningyo Exhibition (Chrysanthemum Puppet Exhibition) that has been taking place annually since 1955 in Nihonmatsu City, Fukushima Prefecture. During the festival large numbers of colorful chrysanthemums are used decorate dolls and puppets and to create other fanciful shapes and displays.  The event will be held from Octboer 1 – November 23, 2008 at Kasumiga-jo Park.

The Kiku Matsuri  was firt held in 1908 and is Japan’s oldest chrysanthemum festival.  The event will be held at Kasama Inari Shrine in Kasama, Ibaraki Prefecture from October 18 -November 24, 2008.  Potted chrysanthemums and chrysanthemum dolls are displayed in the shrine precincts from 8:30AM to 4PM daily during the festival period – admission is ¥800.  In addition the the lovely flower exhibits, a yabusame (archery on horseback) exhibit will be held on November 3rd near the shrine at 10AM and 2PM.

In Aichi Prefecture you can take in the Chrysanthemum Dolls of Nagoya Castle from mid-October to late-November.  In addition to the lovely dolls wearing colorful chrysanthemum clothes you will also find hundreds of chrysanthemum bonsai (potted trees) on display.

Chrysanthemum Exhibitions in Tokyo (admission is free unless otherwise stated):

Sensoji Temple – From October 15- November 15

Yasukuni Shrine, From October 16- November 5

Kameido Tenjin Shrine, From October 19 to November 23

Meiji Jingu Shrine From October 25 to November 23

Hibiya Park, From November 1 – 23,  10AM-4 PM daily (10AM – 12 noon on the 23rd)

Yushima Tenjin Shrine, From November 1 – 23 see life-size dolls made of chrysanthemum flowers and participate in the Yushima Tenjin Kiku Matsuri (festival).

Jindai Botanical Garden (PDF) will hold the Jindai Shokubutsu Koen Kikka-ten from October 28th to November 9. Admission is ¥500.

Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden will hold the Shinjuku Gyoen Kikka-ten from November 1-15. Admission is ¥200.

Image Credit: Flickr, 菊人形 (chrysanthemum-shaped puppet)