River fishing for salmon is strictly regulated here. Anglers must apply for permission several months a head of the actual season. In most cases applications can be made by postcard or via the Internet. Only a limited number of permits are issued for each river, so it is best to apply as soon as the application period opens. Some Japanese skills are required as only Hokkaido’s Churui River has applications in English.

The target of Japan’s salmon anglers is the chum. It is the second largest of the Pacific salmon, and considered by many to be pound-for-pound the best fighter. In addition, Hokkaido offers some world-class fishing for the small but scrappy pink salmon. Both species can be caught on flies, lures, or bait.

Fly-fishing outfits for chum salmon should be 8 to 10 weight with a sinking tip line. Rods should be at least 9 feet long. Some anglers prefer 13 to 16 foot two-handed rods. These longer rods can give better line control and casting distance, but can be tiring to use. For pink salmon, use 6 to 8 weight tackle. Red is the fly color of choice in Japan, but depending upon the conditions, pink, purple, and black can also be effective.

For lure fishing, spinning or casting gear can work equally well. Rods should be 7 1/2 to 9 feet (230 – 276 cm.) long. The usual choice of line is around 16 pound test nylon or fluorocarbon monofilament. The overwhelming favorite lure is a spoon. For most situations, 17 to 21 gram spoons will get down to the fish. On larger, swifter rivers, spoons as heavy as 40 grams might be used. Blue and red are the most popular colors. All lures must have single hooks. Many anglers attach a pink or red plastic squid (tako bait) to the spoon as an added attraction.

In Japan, bait fishermen prefer long very soft-action rods. Many choose 4.5 to 6 meter-long spinning rods, which are typically used for porgy (kurodai). Others favor 8 meter or longer poles without reels that are employed for catching the little smelt-like river fish called ayu. The standard bait is a slice of saury (sanma), a fish readily available in any supermarket. To make their bait more enticing, some anglers spice up it by marinating the slices in grated garlic.

It was a over decade ago right after a salmon fishing trip to Alaska that I saw a notice in a Tokyo tackle shop announcing sport fishing for salmon in Hokkaido’s Churui River. Since that time, I have been able to catch one of my favorite game fish here in Japan. With a little advanced planning, you too can enjoy catching salmon in Japan.

General Rules for Salmon Fishing in Japan

• Anglers must get a fishing permit in advance and register at the stream when they fish.
• With the exception of the special section of the Churui River, catch and release is forbidden. This includes fish that have been foul hooked.
• Anglers are required to report their catch. Catch and keep limits vary from place to place, so you need to know the regulations for the river that you are fishing.
• Bait, lure, and fly-fishing are all allowed, but only with single hooks. The use of treble hooks is prohibited.
• An angler may only use one rod at a time.
• Gaffs are not allowed, but short-handle landing nets are permitted.

Salmon Fishing Rivers in Japan (based on 2008 data)

Many of the resources listed below are in Japanese, so online translating tools such as Yahoo! Babel Fish may be helpful.

Other Japan Fishing Information

ANA Hokkaido Salmon Fishing Package
Teddy Saito – English speaking guide for salmon, trout, char, and taimen fishing in Hokkaido

This article was written by long-time Tokyo resident and life-long fishing fanatic, Alan Bergman. The images are from his personal collection.

Japan looks quite large on a map, but when you look at the total landmass, Japan is quite small – it’s about the same size as California. The over 3,000 islands that make up the Japanese archipelago are spread up and down the edge of East Asia, but the area that many people actually visit is confined to a much smaller area of the country.

The Kanto-Kansai axis from Tokyo to Kyoto is about all most visitors see and could be compared to the New York to Washington D.C. corridor in the States. Despite its small size, there is an amazing variety of food available in Japan. Such variety comes from many things: a long, continuous history, rugged geography, regional political rivalries down through the ages, and even modern food policy that brands products in association with specific areas.

Local food customs mean a lot to the communities which produce them. Many Japanese travel far and wide to experience special dishes in season. During the winter, travelers migrate to the  coastal seaports along the Japan Sea such as Sakai Minato in Tottori or Kasumi in Hyogo for crab.  During the summer gift-giving season, buyers pluck cherries from Yamagata, and in the winter they splurge on amazing apples from Aomori. The tradition of giving these kinds of fruit in season ties the metropolitan masses in their concrete boxes to the basic rhythms of the agricultural countryside.

The Regional Foods in Japan series will introduce you to regional cuisines to watch out for while you are traveling in Japan. You may be able to find these dishes in Tokyo or other big cities, but since people always want an excuse to travel, I’ll tell you it’s different and more tasty when you actually go to the source!

Let’s get started with…

Hokkaido

Ishikari nabe – A winter hot pot dish believed to have started as a fisherman’s meal near the Ishikari river, where salmon return in the fall to winter. The original style calls for an entire salmon from head to tail, chopped up and cooked in a pot with cabbage and green onion. The broth comes from salmon bits and kombu placed in the hot pot, then miso is added. Finally, a sprinkle of sansho, Japanese black pepper, adds some zing to the soup.

Izushi – A form of sushi that initially served as a method of food preservation and is quite different from the famous nigiri style we see today. Fresh salmon or other fish is fermented with steamed rice and vegetables such as julienned carrots, daikon and ginger over a period of one to two months.   Hokkaido is particularly famous for this salmon variety.

Image Credit: Ishikari-nabe & Izushi

If you are planning a trip to Hokkaido be sure to taste these regional specialties and learn about more things to do and see in the region by reading Japan: A Closer Look at Hokkaido.

Check back next Friday when I will tell you about the regional foods of Tohoku & Kanto.  In the meantime please visit me at Tokyofoodcast to follow my foodie adventures in Japan and learn more about Japanese food and food culture .

Overview

Hokkaido occupies the second largest island in the chain of four main islands that make up Japan and it is the country’s northernmost region.  While other regions in Japan include a number of prefectures, Hokkaido is a region and a prefecture unto itself due to it’s size and relatively sparse population.  The region is made up of over 83 thousand square kilometers, is home to over 5.5 million people and has the lowest population density in Japan.  This becomes apparent when you compare Hokkaido, where there are approximately 68 people living in each square kilometer, to Tokyo that has over 5,500 occupying each square kilometer.

The largest city and prefectural capital of Hokkaido is Sapporo, the fifth largest city in Japan. Other major cities include Hakodate and Asahikawa.

History

It is believed that Hokkaido was settled by the Ainu people and others approximately 20,000 years ago.  As early as 658 the Japanese began exploring the area which prompted many battles and ultimately a rebellion.  The Matsumae clan ruled the region until the mid 1800′s and held trading rights with the Ainu people until that time.  Fearing a Russian invasion the Shogun of Japan took over the area around 1869 and named the region Hokkaido.

Hokkaido is Japan’s predominant agricultural area and is in one of the leading producers of rice and fish and vegetables.  Tourism is an important part of the economy of Hokkaido and employs many of it’s people.

Things to Do & See

Hokkaido Guri Guri – Tabi!, the areas tourism website divides Hokkaido into five area for travel planning.  Below we will highlight some of the sightseeing areas in each area.

Northern Hokkaido

Northern Hokkaido consists of a number of small islands that offers visitors an abundance of natural beauty:

• Rishiri Island is a volcanic island popular with hikers and flower lovers that can only be accessed by ferry or air.
• Visit a reindeer farm in Horonobe for a ride in the winter or to see the babies in the spring.
• Take Kushiro Shitsugen Norokko-go, the slowest train in Japan, to Kushiro Marshland, the first Ramsar Wetlands Site in Japan.

February finds the Ice Candle Festival in Shimokawa and you can also visit an astronomical observatory and many other great spots in  Northern Hokaiido.

Eastern Hokaaido

The highlight of Eastern Hokkaido is Shiretoko, a UNESCO World Heritage site that is an outstanding example of the interaction of marine and terrestrial ecosystems as well as extraordinary ecosystem productivity.  Shiretoko is also important for its marine and terrestrial species including a number of endangered and endemic species, such as the Blackiston’s Fish owl, the Steller’s sea Lion, a number of species of Salmon, and a variety of  globally threatened sea birds and and migratory birds.

Other highlights of the area:

• Look for some of the very rare and somewhat mysterious marimo (algae balls) in Lake Akan.
• Visit the Kiritappu Marsh, another Ramsar Wetlands Site and a breeding ground for Japanese cranes and other birds.
• The open-air Abashiri Prison Museum provides an opportunity to learn more about the history of Hokkaido.
• Visit Lake Mashu, one of the worlds most transparent lakes with underwater visibility measured at 41.6 meters in 1931.

Learn more about the sights of Eastern Hokkaiido at the Hokkaido Guri Guri – Tabi! Eastern Hokkaido page or at Welcome to Akan.

Taisetsu Tokachi Area

Home to the Taisetsu Mountain Range, which is called “God’s Garden” by the Ainu people, this is an area of contrast with severe mountain landscapes sitting alongside serene and breathtaking pastoral landscapes.  Highlights in the area include:

• Visit Furano where you can enjoy beautiful blooms and hiking in the spring, summer and early fall, and skiing in the winter.  Furano is also home to a number of onsen (hot springs) if you have time for an overnight stay.
• Tour the Asahiyama Zoo.
• Visit Ashikawa and the Mt. Taisetsu area to see sake breweries, hot springs located in Hokaiido’s volcanic zone,  and take in some of the local craft and ceramics stores.
• Kamui Kotan, a beautiful valley between Sapporo and Ashikawa that is a sacred place for the native Ainu people and is home to steep cliffs and amazing rock formations.
• Drive along one of Japan’s three Melody Roads, in the town of Shibetsu.  Grooves cut into the ground at small intervals, when driven over cause vibration and audible rumblings to be transmitted through the wheels into the car as music.

Learn more about the sights in the part of Hokkaido at Hokkaido Guri Guri – Tabi! or at Taisetsu Sightseeing Navigation.

Central Area

Home the the largest city in the area and the prefectural capital of Sapporo with its population of 1.8 million – this is the hub of Hokkaido.  Highlights in the area include:

• Take in the world famous Sapporo Snow Festival, held annually each February.
• Tour Sapporo Breweries and taste one of Japan’s most popular beers.
• Learn more about the native people of this area at the Ainu Museum in Shiraoi.
• Visit the Lake Toya area, host location for the 2008 G8 Summit.
• Visit the town of Yubari and it’s Coal Mine and Steam Locomotive museums.
• Ski in the winter and take on the rapid in the summer in Niseko.
• Take the Usuzan Ropeway up Mt. Usuzan, an active volcano situated behind Toya-ko (Lake Toya).
• Visit Mt. Asahidake, the highest mountain in Hokkaido.

Explore the city of Sapporo, and other sights in central Hokkaido.

Southern Area

Embark on a trip to Hokkaido by taking the Kaikyo Line of JR Hokkaido Railway Company through the Seikan Tunnel which runs under the channel that separates Aomori Prefecture and the island of Hokkaido.    The tunnel is Hokkaidō’s only land link to the rest of Japan and is 53.85 kilometers long, 23.3 kilometers of which is under the seabed. Then check out some of these sights:

• Visit the hilly city of Hakodate and it’s red brick warehouses that take you back to a time when the area was a thriving port for foreign ships.
• Make a trip to the the Hakodate Morning Market.
• See the Sekikawa Country House in the town of Esashi.  This former home of a wealthy merchant houses a number of ancient documents and antique furniture pieces.
• The only Japanese style castle in Hokkaido is Matsumae Castle.  Visit the museum that houses feudal artifacts including samurai armor and see a replica of the town during the feudal era and the 8,000 cherry trees on the castle grounds.
• Enjoy fresh seafood such as sea urchin and abalone on Okushiri Island.

Find out more about this area on the Hokkaido Guri Guri – Tabi! Southern Hokkaido page.

Odd Facts & Trivia

The 1972 Winter Olympics were held in Sapporo.  Japan had never one a gold at the Winter Olympics until that year when three Japanese athletes swept the ski jump event for gold, silver, and bronze.

To drive around Hokkaido’s 4,400 kilometer circumference (including it’s islands) it would take you over two weeks driving six hours and approximately 300 kilometers per day .

Russia and Japan have never signed a peace treaty to formally end World War II due to Japan’s claim over four islands, the Kuriles, which Soviet troops seized in 1945 off of Hokkaido. The southernmost island in the chain is only 16 kilometers from Hokkaido’s coast.

Hokkaido Trip Planning

Review suggested Hokkaido itineraries at the Visit Hokkaido website or consider taking the two day self-guided trip along Hokkaido’s Golden Route as suggested by the Japan National Tourist Organization.

Be sure to read “Cut & Paste Japan Trip Planning” for other great resources on travel, culture and current events in Japan and check back next week when we take a closer look at Tohoku.

Image Credit: Map from Visit Hokkaido, Flickr, Kushiro National Park, Marimo, Rainbow Field, Sapporo Snow Festival & Matsumae Castle