After partaking our fill of great matsuri food and beer amongst the other revelers we decided to wander through that alleys of Kagurazaka to get away from the crowds along the festive and bustling Kagurazaka Slope.

The sounds of festival music echoed in the background as we began to explore the smaller streets and alleyways of this historic part of Tokyo.  Navigating the area off the main street is a pleasurable jaunt through maze-like paths that twist and turn and where small, romantically lit, restaurants sit side by side with large elegantly appointed Japanese homes – were they ultra-exclusive ryotei, Geisha houses, that still operate in the area and have done for over a hundred years?  As I strolled past, I admit to thinking about the wealthy Japanese men who at that very moment might be enjoying some fine nihonshu (sake) and an evening of Geisha entertainment.

Other establishments looked equally posh but some looked very inviting and a place where, if we hadn’t been so full, we might have popped in for an after dinner cocktail and some tsumami (traditional Japanese hors d-oeuvres).

Kagurazaka is a great area to explore day or night, but in the evening the area evokes a special feeling that is somehow lost during the daylight hours.  It may not be on most peoples list of things to do in Tokyo but for me it ranks as one of the better places to take a stroll on a relaxing summer evening in the city.

This and other great images of Japan can be found in The Nihon Sun Japan Photo Gallery.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection

The name Kagurazaka is a combination of kagura (a shrine-dance to music) and saka (hill) and evokes the sites and topography of this beautiful part of Tokyo.   The layout of the area is much the same as it was when the town was built in the 17th century despite the fact that most of the area was burned down as the result of an air raid on Tokyo in 1920.

The annual Kagurazaka festival takes place each July and features a Hozuki Ichi (Ground Cherry Pod Fair) and parades featuring Awa Odori folk dancers.  This years festival takes place from July 22nd through the 25th and it’s a great opportunity to explore the area.

Festival events are schedule in the evening so head out early and explore the cobblestone alleyways and shops of this area where Karyukai, or Geisha culture, was born.   In 1910 there were as many as 600 Geishas who made the area home and a few Ryotei (Geisha houses) still operate in the area.  The Shinjuku City Tourism Association offers a great guide to Kagurazaka with some photos and history of the various points of interest.  Also, be sure to ask an area vendor for a copy of the Walking Guide for Kagurazawa.

Awa Odori on Kagurazaka Slope

The highlight of the festival is the Awa odori, a local bon dance from Tokushima Prefecture featuring  fifteen dance troupes parading down Kagurazaka Dori from 7-9PM on July 24th & 25th. (Kagurazaka Festival Map)

Hozuki Ichi

The area around the Bishamonten Zenkokuji Temple hosts the Hozuki Ichi (Ground Cherry Pod Fair) on July 22nd & 23rd from 5-10PM.  Enjoy the beer garden and consider taking advantage of the yukata (summer cotton kimono) dress up service so you can strolling through the area like a local.

Kagurazaka is conveniently located and accessible from the JR IIdabashi station on the Yamanote Line. As you exit the station, turn to your right and a one minute walk will place you at the base of Kagurazaka-dori.  Tokyo Metro Iidabashi and Ushigome-Kagurazaka stations also provide access to the area.

If you plan on attending the festival with children you will find the tips and advice in Take your Kids to a Festival in Japan helpful.

Image Credit:  Flickr, P1000984 Kagurazaka & Awa Odori, Tokushima, Japan [2008]