Noh was developed in ancient Japan and has been refined and performed since the Muromachi period (1333－1573).  A Noh play features a main actor and a small supporting cast of actors and musicians telling a tale that cane be set in reality, genzai no, or based on fantasy, mugen no. The main character wears an elaborately carved mask appropriate for his character and utilizes stylized movements (kata) and chanting (utai) to tell a tale that is often based on stories found in classic Japanese literature and is accompanied by traditional music.

“Noh is a kind of symbolic drama colored with the graceful aesthetic effect of quiet elegance that is expressed through the word yugen (”elegant, refined, and elusive beauty”). Its subjects are taken from history or classical literature, and it is structured around song and dance”

Today, Noh along with Kyogen, is recognized as a  Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO and is performed at the National Theater of Japan in Tokyo, Osaka and Okinawa at various times during the year.

For a less formal, but equally impressive performance look for outdoor events like those performed on Sado Island in the Chubu Region of Japan or the annual performance in the garden adjacent to Osaka Castle.  This year features a Noh play telling the story of Minamoto no Yoshitsune, a military commander in the Heian period (794-1192), and his mistress Shizuka Gozen as well as a performance of Kyogen followed by the lighting of bonfires around the stage and a dramatic illumination of Osaka Castle.

Noh at Osaka Castle Event Details:

Date: Thursday, August 27, 2009

Time: 6PM (will be postponed to the following day in case of rain)

Venue: Nishi no Maru Garden on the grounds of Osaka Castle (Osaka Castle Access Map)

Tickets: Advance tickets, which are available at major ticket outlets, are 3,600 yen for adults and 2,000 yen for university and high school students. Tickets at the door are 4,500 yen and 2,500 yen, respectively.  (Event details from Daily Yomiuri)

Image Credit:  Wikimedia, File:春日神社ー篠山ー翁奉納P1011774 & Flickr, Kagura Source: National Theater of Japan, What is Noh & Kyogen?

As Ms. Andoh conducts the “In a Pickle” culinary workshop she shares with the participants the wealth of food knowledge that she has gained living the majority of her life in Japan and from her years of study at the prestigious Yanagihara Kinsaryu School of Traditional Japanese Cuisine.   A native New Yorker, she also has a degree in anthropology and a keen interest in the science of food, its roots in necessity and how a culture is built around native foods.

Mt. Fuji is as much a symbol of Japan as its food and it seems only fitting that on a clear day it can be seen from the Tokyo kitchen where A Taste of Culture workshops are held.  Unlike the mountain that is shrouded in clouds more often than not, Ms. Andoh sheds light on the foods of Japan: how to prepare them, how to serve them and even how to enjoy them.  The participants on this day span the globe from Finland to India and from Canada to Germany and all want to learn more about pickles from the author of Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen and a contributor to Gourmet magazine for over 30 years.

As we chop, simmer, boil and ultimately create two different types of Japanese pickles, sokuseki-zuke (impatient pickles) and amazu shoga (pink pickled ginger) Ms. Andoh talks about formulas more than recipes and along the way shares with us the nutritional value of the various ingredients and a variety of interesting information about the Japanese kitchen where a pickle pot commonly resides on the counter or in the fridge of most homes.

As we start Ms. Andoh is quick to point out that tsukemono are not pickles in the true sense of the word.  The name is derived to the the verb tsukaru which more closely resembles the English word “marinate” in meaning.  While pickles have a long shelf life, most tsukemono have a limited shelf life and are best consumed within a relatively short period of time.  The art of making tsukemono is in the relative proportion of ingredients and in the timing of the actual pickling, or brining, process itself.  The variety of vegetables that can be utilized in the pickle pot is immense – the colors intense and all from nature or enhanced by natural ingredients like aka jiso (red shiso) leaves for a vibrant red or kuchinashi no mi (dried gardenia pod) for an intense yellow color.

It is difficult to put into words the effect that attending a workshop at Ms. Andoh’s Taste of Culture kitchen has on its participants.  Part cooking school, part food lecture and part food history and science education – all very interesting and inspiring.   The discussion on this day ranged from foods mentioned in the Kojiki, the oldest surviving Japanese book dating back to 712, that are still being made today in much the same manner but with the assistance of modern kitchen gadgets like the hard plastic pickle pot and microwave, not to mention the convenience of refrigeration.

I left the “In a Pickle” culinary workshop with much more than the two small jars of pickles we created and the samples of ingredients that are often unknown to or difficult for non-native Japanese to find let alone procure without a firm grasp of both written and verbal Japanese.

Participants are provided extensive written information on the workshop topic prior and advanced reading of the material only enhances the experience.  Ms. Andoh also provides homework and requests that students email her with feedback on the results.  Andoh has earned her stripes in the world of Japanese food and cooking, she is the only non-Japanese member of the prestigious Japan Food Journalists Association (JFJ), but she remains very approachable and her passion for Japanese food is contagious.

A Taste of Culture programs are conducted in English and attract both foreign residents of Japan and independent tourist-visitors to Japan at kitchens in either Tokyo or Osaka as are seasonal and ingredient specific tasting programs.  Market tours and onsite workshops can also be arranged.

A three hour culinary class, like the “In a Pickle” culinary workshop I attended and have documented here in pictures, culminates with a shared meal where participants dine on dishes made during the class that are often supplemented from Ms. Andoh’s well stocked refrigerator.  If she speaks about a dish or ingredient during a workshop there is a good chance that you will get to touch, smell or taste it by the end of your time in her kitchen.

If you live in or are planning a visit to Tokyo or Osaka and love Japanese food, make an effort to include and Taste or Culture program on your itinerary at the outset.  Your experience of Japanese food culture will be enhanced immeasurably.

Visit the A Taste of Culture website for program schedule, registration information, location and additional information.

If you can’t get to Tokyo why not purchase your very own copy of Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen and put Ms. Andoh’s Japanese food recipes and wisdom to work in your own kitchen?

For more on my pickle making adventures inspired by Ms. Andoh and my day in the Taste of Culture Tokyo kitchen please take a moment to read my guest post “Making Japanese Pickles the Washoku Way” on La Fuji Mama, where enthusiastic fans of Ms. Andoh’s Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen have teamed up as the Washoku Warriors to work through the recipes in the cookbook.

“In a Pickle” Tsukemono Workshop in Pictures:

 

Image credit:  Personal Collection

Travel Time

In most cases people have realistic expectations of what can be done within their allotted time frame but other think that the Shinkansen (bullet train) is like a time machine that will whisk them from one destination to another in seconds rather than hours.  They are fast, traveling up to 300 km per hour, but they are not that fast!

One thing that constantly surprises me is the amount of time that it takes to get from point A to point B in Japan, and even within Tokyo.  I love the train system and it is one of the most economical and efficient ways of getting around in Japan but it may take you a little longer than you think to get from one place to another.

To give you an example of this let’s take a look at how long it will take you to get to and from the  Top 10 Tourist Destinations in Japan using Hyperdia, one of the best tools to to use when planning your route about the country by train.

Japan Travel Timetable

* format used is travel time (includes transfer times between trains) /number of transfers – keep in mind that travel time may vary depending on the time of the day.

So let’s look at a typical day of sightseeing in Tokyo.  If your hotel is in Shibuya and you want to go to Tokyo to see the Imperial Palace and then on to Ueno Park, where you can stroll about the temples, visit a museum or two or even rent a boat at Shinobazu Pond before heading back to Shibuya for some people watching and calling it a night you will have spend some time in transit.

From the table above your total time spent traversing the city would be 53 minutes and you would only have to transfer trains two times.  Sounds pretty good right?  But how long does it take to get to the station from the various points of interest on your Tokyo itinerary?  On average you will have to walk anywhere from 5-15 minutes from the station to your destination and back.  That will add another 30-90 minutes to your commute time.

That adds up to a total of anywhere from 83 – 143 minutes spent just getting to a from your destination – a total of up to 2.5 hours of your day that you could be spend just riding the rails.

You Have to Eat

Let’ assume for a moment that you eat breakfast before you head out for the day and dinner upon your return in the evening.  You still need to budget some time for lunch, where you will hopefully dine on some of Japan’s regional food specialties in a great neighborhood restaurant or pick up a bento box or one of the other cheap eats in Japan to eat in a local park.

There goes another hour or so of your day…not wasted but you still haven’t wandered about much yet and 3.5 hours are gone…

Taking in the Sights

Now that’s out of the way we can talk about how much time it take to enjoy the sights at a leisurely pace.  After all this is a vacation and supposed to be relaxing and enjoyable right? If you plan for an eight hour day (remember that’s excluding breakfast and dinner) then after commuting and eating you are left with 4.5 hours to take in the sights.

I know I could spend a that amount of time just exploring Ueno!

If you want to take in a museum that could take anywhere from an hour to two or more.  Exploring the area around the Imperial Palace can take a similar amount of time, more if your want to stroll through the adjacent gardens.  You will want to rent your boat for about half an hour and spend some time exploring the other sights in Ueno park that include temples, shrines and even a zoo.

As you can see your four plus hours are being used up at a rapid pace!

But don’t just pull out your guidebook or pick up a map from the local tourist office and start ticking things off and snapping pictures to show your friends.  You want to take some time to really take in any area you visit and that involves stepping into that interesting alley and wandering past that small shrine or shop that caught your eye.  Sure, take some pictures, but don’t forget to enjoy the experience and remember that photos fade but memories last a lifetime.

It all takes time – how long is up to you but don’t rush yourself and don’t over plan your days.  Build some flexibility into your schedule so that your vacation doesn’t become like work.

Fatigue Factor

You will spend a lot of time on trains and walking to and from the destinations on your itinerary and this can be exhausting.   There is also the mental fatigue resulting from being in a new place where just reading the signs and figuring out which way to go can take its toll on your energy level.

Take advantage of your time of the trains to rest your feet and rejuvenate yourself for the next part of your day.  Make sure to stay hydrated by stopping every now and then at one of the much talked about vending machines in Japan – they really are everywhere!   Get yourself some water but be sure to try some of the other drinks as well.  Some are quite tasty and you might even find a new favorite, or one that’s not so good.  Either way, it’s another memory from your trip to Japan that you get to take home with you.

The End of The Day

If you have a limited amount of time to travel about Japan your days will be full, there is no doubt about that, but don’t overextend yourself and try to cram too much into your itinerary.

For inspiration take some time to browse through the Japan Regional Travel Resources but remember to give yourself some downtime – Japan will still be here if you want to visit again…

You can fit a lot into a short time in Japan but make sure to enjoy the journey!

This is my entry in the June Japan Bog Matsuri, hosted this month by Billy of Tune-In-Tokyo.

Image Credit: Flickr, Citizen Clock, Ginza, Tokyo, E231-5xx @ Tokyo Station, Audience [小野川 / 佐原の大祭秋祭り(諏訪神社秋祭り)] & Hankyu train

As we delve further into things to do and see in the region, you might also be curious about what to eat in Kansai.  Exploring the delicious cuisine of the region will only enhance your trip.

Osaka Prefecture

Visit the impressive eight story Osaka Castle that was built over 400 years ago and includes a number of interesting exhibitions.  The 60,000 square meter grounds are a popular place to to view hanami (cherry blossoms).

See a Grand Sumo Tournament from March 15-29 at the Osaka Prefectural Gymnasium.

Take in a performance of Bunraku at the National Bunraku Theater.  Life sized puppets are manipulated by three puppeteers to the strains of traditional joruri chanting and shamisen music.

Browse for souvenirs on Japan’s longest shopping street, Tenjimbashi-Suji, that is 2.6 kilometers long and spans the equivalent of three subway stops.

Visit the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan, in the Tempozan Harbor Village where you can take in the view of Osaka Bay from a  massiveFerris Wheel that measures 100 meters in diameter.

Stop by the Sumiyoshi-taisha Shrine, home to the Taiko-bashi Bridge, and a national treasure.  The red arched Taiko-bashi Bridge is featured in a number of Japanese classic works of literature including the “Tale of Genji”.

The 48 Waterfalls of Takihata are the starting point for many of the hiking trails that traverse Mt. Iwaki and Mt. Makio.   The Kotaki fall is the largest and is located behind the Kotakiji temple which is said to be named after the falls.

Stroll through the Japanese garden in Tennoji Park and learn more about the history of Osaka through the parks other historical spots.

If you are looking for Japanese cooking utensils or tableware the a visit to Sennichimae Doguya-Suji is a must.  With over 45 stores spanning over 160 meters, the surrounding area is also home to antique dealers and second hands shops.

Entertain yourself with the rides and attractions at Universal Studios Japan

For more ideas of what to see and do when visiting Osaka take some time to browse around the Osaka Tourist Guide website or visit the Japan National Tourist Organization’s Osaka pages.

Wakayama Prefecture

Visit the Kumano-sanzan and the Kii Mountain range, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Learn how to make Kishu Lacquerware or  go whale watching at Kushimoto Marine Park.  These are just two of the hands on experiences in Wakayama, you can also go river rafting or dress in Heian Attire and walk a portion of the the ancient Kumano Pilgrimage route.

Visit the temples and shrines of Wakayama including the Dojo-ji temple, the prefectures oldest, built in 701

Peruse the Buddhist artifacts and artwork at the Koyasan Reihokan Museum.

Relax at the famous onsen in Shirahama and take in the natural beauty of the Senjo-jiki Rock Tableland in the area.

Drive along the scenic Shirasaki Coast.

Take one of five walking tours of Wakayama or follow one of the itineraries created by the Wakayama Tourist Federation.

Visit the Wakayama Tourism website or the Japan National Tourist Organization’s Wkayama pages to plan your trip.

Odd Facts & Trivia

Osaka prefecture is the smallest in terms of area in Japan.

Are you a movie, anime or manga buff or do you just want to snap a classic image of Kansai?  If so be sure to check out popular filming locations in Kansai to learn about which places appear in Japanese film.

Articles in the Japan: A Closer Look series:

• Japan: A Closer Look at Hokkaido
• Japan: A Closer Look at Tohoku – Part 1 & Part 2
• Japan: A Closer Look at Chubu – Part 1, Part 2 & Part 3
• Japan: A Closer Look at Kanto – Part 1 & Part 2
• Japan: A Closer Look at Kanto – Kanagawa
• Japan: A Closer Look at Kanto – Tokyo Practicalities
• Japan: A Closer Look at Kanto – Tokyo – Part 1 & Part 2
• Japan: A Closer Look At Tokyo:Lesser Known Facts And Figures
• Japan:A Closer Look at Kansai – Part 1

Image Credit:  Flickr, Osaka Castle Moat & headland 門

#1 Shinjuku, Tokyo

The New York bar where Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson enjoyed cocktails in the movie Lost in Translation offers great views of the Tokyo skyline from Shinjuku.  Approximately 2 million people move through Shinjuku’s vast train station each day and it is the portal to a busy business area populated by modern skyscrapers and fashionable department stores.  One of Tokyo’s best parks, Shinjuku Gyoen is also located in Shinjukju and you can get a taste for Tokyo’s red-light nightlife in Kabukicho (learn about recently released audio tour of Shinjuku at Ping Mag).

#2 Ginza, Tokyo

Ginza is to Tokyo what 5th Avenue is to New York.  This famous shopping district is famous for it’s grand nightly display of colorful neon and almost every luxury store that you can imagine.  The area is also home to some great western style and modern architecture and the main street in closed to traffic on weekend afternoons which make being seen that much easier – because being seen or saying that you have been to Ginza has a certain cache worldwide. (Ginza map)

#3 Shibuya, Tokyo

Shibuya is full of trendy and cool stores that cater to Tokyo’s younger generation.  The famous Hachiko Crossing is one of the busiest intersections in the world and is home to large video screens, funky billboards and one of Starbucks busiest stores in the world.  Catch the energy of the area with a walk around Shibuya.

#4 Harajuku, Tokyo

Gothic Lolitas and Japanese Princesses will vie for you attention in Harajuku.  Takeshita Dori is home to stores that cater to the areas denizens and also offers insight into trendy Tokyo street fashion. In start contrast, only a short distance away from the cutting edge of the Tokyo youth scene you will find the peaceful confines of the Meiji Jingu Shrine. (Harajuku walking map)

#5 Asakusa, Tokyo

Asakusa’s Senso-ji temple and Nakamise Dori, a shopping street leading up to it are well worth visiting on any trip to Tokyo.  The area is also home to a number of famous tempura restaurants an is a short walk from the Kappabashi wholesale district where you can pick up beautiful Japanese dishes, ceramics, iron tea kettles, knives and even one of the plastic food replicas that you will find in almost every restaurant window in Japan.  Asakusa is also the place where you can embark on a cruise of the Sumida river. (Asakusa area map)

#6 Ueno, Tokyo

Ueno Park is home to a zoo, a number of temples, some of Tokyo’s best museums and is one of city’s most famous areas for viewing the Cherry Blossoms each spring.  Just outside the park is Ameya-yokocho, a bustling street market filled with tiny shops and vendors’ carts – pick up a local snack or souvenir or simply stop for a refreshment after a stroll through the park. (Ueno Walking Map)

#7 The Rest Of Tokyo

There is a lot to see in this city with a population that exceeds 12 million and is divided into 23 separate wards.  Other areas that made this roundup of the most popular sights in Tokyo are the ultra modern cities within the city: Roppongi Hills, Tokyo Midtown and Odaiba.  To get a glimpse of how royalty lives you may also want to consider a visit to the Imperial Palace, home to the Emperor of Japan, and the adjacent gardens.

#8 Yokohama

A beautiful port town about a half an hour outside of Tokyo by train, Yokohama is home to one of the biggest Chinatowns in the world and some great examples of foreign architecture.  The Minato Mirai area is home to a modern shopping area and a Ferris Wheel that offers a stunning view of the bay.  See these and all of the other great tourist spots that Yokohama has to offer.

#9 Kyoto

Kyoto can be described as the cradle of Japanese history and culture. Once the capital, Kyoto has an amazing number of ancient temples, shrines, traditional buildings and excellent museums that are well worth visiting.  Kyoto is one of the most beautiful places in Japan and is well deserving of a spot on this list.

#10 Osaka

Osaka, two-and-a-half hours from Tokyo by shinkansen, is home to traditional architecture and the famous Osaka Castle.  About 40 minutes away is Himeji Castle, a World Heritage Site built from the 14th to 17th centuries and nearby Kobe is home to the world famous beef of the same name.  Visit the Osaka and Kobe tourism websites to learn more about theses great cities.

Returning visitors are a bit more adventurous and head for some of the other regions of Japan to enjoy great skiing and hiking in Hokkaido or some of the areas well know for their onsens or spas.  With the slowing of the worldwide economy and an underdeveloped tourism infrastructure Japan has it’s work cut out to increase the number of tourists that visit each year.

I hope that the Visit Japan Campaign is successful as it will allow visitors and foreign residents to learn more about areas of Japan that would otherwise remain undiscovered.

Image Credit:  Personal Collection, Flickr, Sensō-ji Temple (Asakusa, Tokyo) & Japan – May 12th 2007 – Himeji and Osaka Castle 036

“Women Artists in Osaka: 20th Century Art from Japanese-style Bijinga Paintings to the Postwar Avant-Garde”

If you were the daughter in upper class family in Japan in the early 1900’s there is a good chance that you would have attended painting classes as it was the fashionable thing to do at the time.  Many women in Japan did so but few exceeded as artists and those that did were often overlooked by the art establishment in Japan.  Female artists in Osaka in particular suffered this fate and are the subject of an exhibition at the Osaka City Museum of Modern Art that runs until December 7th.  Read more about this exhibit and the history of women artists in Japan at the Japan Times.

“An End is a Beginning”

Tomoko Yoneda is a Japanese photographer currently based in London who believes that an image can evoke memories and and times beyond the image itself.  An exhibition at the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo is the first to present a comprehensive overview of her art and will feature 60 pieces.  The highlight of the exhibition is a group of photographs that tell the tale of two spies working in Japan for Russia, Yotoku Miyagi and Richard Sorge.  The exhibition titled “An End is a Beginning” depicts the intrigue and meetings between the two in haunting images that will be on display until November 30th.  Read a review of “An End is a Beginning” at the Japan Times.

TENMYOUYA Hisashi “Fighting Spirit”

Act soon if you want to see this solo exhibition by Hisashi Tenmyouya at the Mizuma Art Gallery in Tokyo.  Utilizing traditional Japanese art forms, Tennyouya has created a series of eight works that satirizes the state of contemporary society – the largest being an impressive 3 meters long.  Also on display are 400 illustrations used in Kenzo Kitakata ’s novel “Bokyo no Michi (Path of Nostalgia) where the artist captures the subtle moves and emotions of the characters in Sumi ink drawings.

Image Credit:  Wikimedia, Sumie