Accompanied but the thundering sound of beating drums, the music of bamboo flutes and shouts of “rasseera” by Haneto dancers this is more than just a parade.  It is a dramatic six night festival that is considered one of the best in Japan as evidenced by the three million people that visit annually.  The Aomori Nebuta Festival culminates on the final evening when a large toro, lantern, is floated out to sea, symbolically taking evil spirits with it, as large and colorful display of fireworks light up the night sky.

Some historians believe that this event is a local variation of Tanabata celebrations, and others think it originated with a general who created large creatures to scare away rebels in the area sometime in the 800′s.

Japan in Motion offers a great video of the festival and says that “The Aomori Nebuta Festival is, unquestionably, one of the most visually dramatic, energetic, and well attended festivals in all Japan”.  More than thirty nebuta floats participate each year – each takes up to a year to construct and some tower five meters above the street and are spun about by their handlers as they move along the parade route.

Visitors are encourage to participate with area vendors renting Haneto costumes for around Y5,000 per person.

Hirosaki, also in Aomori prefecture, also hosts its won festival, the Neptuta Festival, where a much quieter, but no less impressive, version of the events in Aomori take place.

The Aomori Nebuta Festival takes place from August 2nd through the 7th and the Hirosaki Neputa Festival starts a day earlier, on the first, and also ends on the 7th.

Visit the Japan Nation Tourist Organization website for Nebuta Festival access information for both sites.

Image Credit:  Flickr, Aomori Nebuta festival, Japan [2008], 2006-0802 (191) & Hirosaki Neputa festival, Japan [2008]

Today we’ll cover Tohoku & Kanto…

Tohoku

Wanko-soba – Eating wanko-soba in Morioka, Iwate, is like participating in an eating competition on television in Japan. You start with a small bowl containing just a mouthful of soba ,only to be followed by continuous shots of soba refills until you call a stop to the force-feeding. A personal server refills your bowl just as fast as you finish one along with a chant, “Chan-chan”, to help you keep pace.

Senbei Jiru – This soup dish with wafer like crackers made of flour from Hachinohe won second place in the 2008 B-1 Grand Prix. Senbei is broken up and added to a steamy pot of soup a few minutes before serving to preserve the al dente texture.

Gyutan – When you step out the JR Shinkansen at Sendai in Miyagi, you see a restaurant row called Gyutan Dori that specializes in beef tongue.  Restaurants serve barbecued sliced beef tongue with ox tail soup and barley rice and even tongue curry, stew or sashimi!

Image Credit:  Wanko-Soba, senbei jiru (pictured on right) & Gyutan in Sendai

Kanto

Yuba – The skin formed on the surface when soy milk is heated. It’s sold either fresh or dried. Although Kyoto produces over 80% of yuba in the nation according to research from the Soy Information Center, Nikko in Tochigi is famous for this vegetarian food.   Many restaurants in the area serve light delightful dishes incorporating yuba.   During my last visit, I tried onigiri wrapped in yuba instead of seaweed.

Chanko nabe – There are many Chanko nabe restaurants in the Ryogoku area of Tokyo that are operated by former Sumo wrestlers who once competed in the  Ryogoku Kokugikan in the same area.  At the end of the morning training, wrestlers eat a meal prepared at the stable, chanko, often hot pot dish with meat or fish, vegetables cooked in soup.

Monjayaki – Tsukishima in Tokyo has more than 70 monjayaki restaurants. It is a cook-it-yourself type dish in which you put cabbage and other ingredients on a griddle, form a ring, then, pour very watery batter flavored with sauce in the middle. The resulting dough mixture looks like an under-cooked gooey pancake or crepe, and you use tiny metal spatulas to scrape up and eat monyayaki directly from the grill. Map of monja-yaki restaurants in Tokyo (in Japanese – restaurants are located between Tsukishima Station on Yurakucho or Oedo Line and Kachidoki Station on Oedo Line)

Image Credit:  Yuba Onigiri in Nikko, Chanko nabe at Kirishima, Ryogoku, Monja with tiny metal spatula (pictured on right)

If you are planning a trip to Tohuku be sure to taste these regional specialties and learn about more things to do and see in the region by reading Japan: A Closer Look at Tohuku Part 1 & Part 2 and keep reading The Nihon Sun to see our closer look at Kanto coming soon.

Check back next Friday when I will tell you about the regional foods of Chubu & Kansai.  In the meantime please visit me at Tokyofoodcast to follow my foodie adventures in Japan and learn more about Japanese food and food culture .

Things to Do & See in Tohoku

Iwate Prefecture

Iwate Prefecture is the second largest prefecture in Japan and is located on the Pacific Ocean in northern Japan.  Morioka is the largest city and the seat of the prefectural government.

• Visit the Morioka Handiworks Square to try your hand at making Nambu-senbei crackers, glutinous rice confections and steamed buns or see demonstrations of ironwork and ceramics.
• Visits the impressive Ho Onji Buddhist Temple in Morioka and be sure to see to the Statues of the 500 Disciples of Buddha made from wood and finished with Japanese lacquer that are housed there.
• Take a dip in one of seven hot springs at Geto Hot Spring outside of Kitakami where the highlight of your stay will include a visit to the Dokutsu no Yu, a giant hot spring located within a cave.
• Visit the Goishi Coast, named after the small crystal like pebbles found on the eash that resemble stone used in the Japanese game of Go.  A four kilometer walking path winds along the cliffs, and campsites and an aquarium can all be found along the Goishi Coast.
• Climb the 204 steps within the Kamaishi Daikannon on Kamakazi Point.  The statue is 13 stories tall, houses a gallery and offers stunning views of the Ozaki Peninsula and Mada Misaki.
• Visit Ryusen-do Cave, one of the three larges limestone caves in Japan, and the emerald green underground lakes located within the cave that is 2,500 meters long.
• Visit the historic monuments at Hiraizumi, a UNESO World Heritage Site.

Visit the Iwate page presented by the Japan National Tourist Organization or Iwate no Tabi to find more great things to see and do in Iwate Prefecture and you can put it all in perspective with this handy map of Iwate.

Miyagi Prefecture

Miyagi prefecture is located on the Pacific Ocean about 300 kilometers north of Tokyo and is in the center of the Tohoku region.  Miyagi is known for it’s rich fishing grounds and lovely scenery.

• Dine on traditional food at Inishieno Yakata Tatenoie in Natori.  The restaurant is located in an Edo period mansion that was once the home of rich farmer.
• Stay at the Ariga no Sato Takamatta guest house in Wakayanagi – enjoy home cooked meals and take part in seasonal activities such as rice planting and soba kneading.
• Explore Miyai’s Sushi Road in Kesennuma, Ishinomake or Shiogami.
• Take part in the Tanabata (Star) Festival each summer in Sendai.
• Peer out at the 260 plus islands that dot Matsushima Bay from the area around Zuigan-ji Temple.
• See the Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles play a baseball game at Kleenex Miyagi Stadium in Sendai.

Take some time to explore the city of Sendai (the capital of Miyagi), visit the Miyagi page presented by the Japan National Tourist Organization or Miyagi Touring Navigation to find more great things to see and do in the prefecture.

Yamagata Prefecture

Yamagata prefecture produces the bulk of Japan’s cherries and pears and is home to over 100 onsen or hot springs.  Located on the Sea of Japan this area is blessed with an abundance of natural beauty along with many historic temples and shrines.

• Introduce yourself to one or more of the 16 of the most well known hot springs in Yamagata.
• Visit the Risshaku-ji Temple that houses a Buddhist flame that been kept lit since the foundation of the temple more than 1,000 years ago.  The temple was also the subject of a poem by Matsuo Basho, a leading Japanese haiku poet of the 17th century.
• Explore the Sankyo Storehouse in Sakata City that was built in 1893 to store rice and is still in operation to this day.
• Visit the Uesugi Kinenkan Museum on a tour of Yonezawa.   Visit in mid-February to see the snow lantern festival or in early May to see a re-enactment of the ‘Battle of Kawanakajima’ that is part of the Uesugi festival.
• Take a cruise one the Mogami-gawa River
• Visit Okama Crater Lake in Zao for some camping, hiking, skiing or horseback riding.

Visit the Yamagata page presented by the Japan National Tourist Organization or Welcome to Yamagata to find more great things to see and do in the prefecture.

Poetry Inspired by the Tohoku Region

The Haiku below was written by Matsuo Basho, a leading Japanese haiku poet who lived from 1644 to 1694 and stayed in Yamagata for 43 days during his 150 day journey to the Tohoku region in 1689.

Utter silence,
Piercing the stone walls,
The cicada’s cry

Set at Yamadera temple in Yamagata City

Take a moment to read Yamagata: On the path of poets to read another of Basho’s Haiku and to follow in his footsteps.

Trip Planning

If you are visiting the Tohoku region of Japan be sure to read Part 1 of Japan: A Closer Look at Tohoku in conjunction with this article and for an overview of the region and to explore more of what there is do do in Tohoku take some time to browse through the Tohoku Guide.

“Cut & Paste Japan Trip Planning” offers great resources on travel, culture and current events throughout Japan.

Image Credit:  Flickr, Hiraizumi, Matsushima Bay, Japan & Two gods gate (nioumon, 仁王門) & Wikimedia, MatsuoBashoChusonji

Tohoku was settled between the seventh and ninth centuries and is home to almost 10 million people.  It is an industrial and agricultural area of Japan that once provided the country with twenty percent of it’s rice and is home to great natural beauty – in fact one writer calls Tohoku Japan’s best kept secret.

Things to Do & See in Tohoku

Akita Prefecture

Akita sits on the Japan Sea on the western side of Japan and is surrounded by mountains on to the north, east and south.  The prefecture has an abundance of fertile farmlands and is known as a rice farming region.  Visitors can enjoy the areas scenic beauty year round  by booking a stay at one of the Akita area onsen (hot springs) that are located in close proximity to the ocean, mountains and even in apple groves.  Activities include golf in the spring & summer and skiing each winter.

• See the deepest lake in Japan, Lake Tazawa-ko.  the lake is 423.4 meters deep with a visibility to approximately 30 meters which makes is Japan’s second most transparent lake, secon only to Lake Mashu in Hokkaido.
• Visit the Oga-hanto Peninsula and the Oga City where you will find a scenic coastline in the shape of an axe and stunning sunsets.
• Lake Towada-ko is crater lake that sits at the top of a 400-meter-high mountain on the border between Aomori and Akita. There are four scenic observation points around the lake’s shore of you can take a tour via sightseeing boat for a different vantage point.
• The Akita-kanto Matsuri (fesitval) each August features lanterns made from ears of rice that twinkle in the night sky like the Milky Way.
• The Kamakura (snow hut festival) in Yokote each February features over 100 hollowed out mounds of snow that are lit from within and house people eating grilled rice cakes and drinking amazake (a traditional sweet, low-alcoholic drink made from fermented rice).
• Namahage-sedo Festival in Oga each February features people dressed as demons wandering through the town to drum music offering blessings
• Home to the Shirakami-Sanchi, another UNESCO World Heritage site famous for it’s beech tree forest and the 87 species of birds that can be found there.

Aomori Prefecture

Aomori is the northernmost prefecture on the main island of Honshu and is the eighth largest prefecture in Japan.  The swan is the prefectural bird and is considered a harbingers of winter by the people of Aomori. The area is home to historical ruins and an beautiful natural beauty.

• Visit ruins from the Jomon period (4-5 thousand years ago) at the Sannai Maruyama Historical Site.
• The Aomori Nebuta Festival takes palce in early August each year and features about 20 nebuta (giant human-shaped floats) that are paraded down the streets the sounds of taiko drums, flutes, and haneto dancers shouting the traditional cry of “rassera”.
• Take a ride on the Tsugaru Railway, a  20.7 kilometers long and spans just 12 stations.  The railway operates a special “Windchime Train” from July to August,a”Cricket Train” from September to October, and a “Heater Train” from November to March.
• The Hachinohe Grand Festival takes place in late July and early August and features approximately 20 large floats and shrine columns parading through the streets of the city.
• It is said that the souls of the dead gather on Osore-zan (Mount Fear).  Rituals to communicate with the dead are held here every year in July and October.
• Hotokegaura Coastline(Sai Village) This 2 kilometer long coastline offers a breathtaking view of fantastically shaped volcanic green tuff rocks, some as tall as 100 meters.  Erosion has has created tall standing rocks are reminiscent of a gathering of praying Buddha.  Located two hours by car from Ominato JR Station.
• Hirosaki Castle, designated as a historic sites, was built in the beginning of the 17th century and is said to be at it’s most beautiful when the Cherry Blossoms are in bloom from late April to the beginning of May each year.
• See many of the areas sight by following the Apple Route in the fall or spring when the colors of the area are at their peak.

Fukushima Prefecture

Fukushima is the southernmost prefecture in the Tohoku region and is the third largest prefecture in Japan. It is home to more than 130 onsen (hot springs) and a variety of other great things to do and see.  Located about  200 kilometers from Tokyo, it takes about 1.5 hours by shinkansen (bullet train) to get to Fukushima.  Major Cities include Fukushima, Koriyama and Shirakawa.

• Visit the Aizu Sake Factory to see how sake was manufactured during the Edo Period.
• Learn about the samurai cultures at Tsurugajo Castle, located in Aizu-Wakamatsu, the oldest town in Fukushima Prefecture.
• Visit the line of fruit farms at the base of Mt. Azuma-Kofuji or take in a 360 degree panoramic view from the crater.
• Take a horse-drawn carriage tour of  Kitakata, an area that produces sake, miso (soy bean paste) and is famous or it’s ramen, lacquerware and Paulownia woodwork.
• Visit the area surrounding Lake Inawashiro-ko.
• Take in the Waraji Matsuri where huge straw sandals are paraded through the street or one of the other festivals in Fukushima.
• Explore the city of Kariyama .

Odd Facts & Trivia From Tohoku

Lake Tazawa-ko is said to be home to a guardian spirit in the form of a dragon who was once a girl of rare beauty named Tatsuko.  She desired eternal youth and prayed to the Goddess Kannon for one hundred days and one hundred nights. On the final night, the goddess told her to drink water from the spring in the north and her desire would be fulfilled. She found a spring among moss-covered stones and drank its water. The more water she drank, the thirstier she became. Before she knew it, she had turned into a dragon and went deep into the lake where she lives as its guardian sprit. This is the legend of Princess Tatsuko.  (source: Akitaweb)

When you visit the Oga-hanto peninsula look for the boulder that resembles Godzilla.

Fukushima Prefecture lies between 139 and 141 degrees east longitude and 37 to 38 degrees north latitude – the same latitude as southern Greece and San Francisco,California .

Dr. Hideyo Noguchi (1876-1928), famous for his research into yellow fever and whose portrait is depicted on the 1,000-yen note, was born in Inawashiro,Fukushima

Trip Planning

For an overview of the region and to explore more of what there is do do in Tohoku take some time to browse through the Tohoku Guide.

Read Part 2 of Japan: A Closer Look at Tohoku to learn more about Iwate, Miyagi, and Yamagata Prefectures and “Cut & Paste Japan Trip Planning” for other great resources on travel, culture and current events throughout Japan.

Image Credit: Flickr, 104 Oga Peninsula Shinzan – Namehage, Hazy day, Japanese Castles II